My first Magazine Vogue_USA__June_2017 | Page 70

WITH THE BAND MODELS BACKSTAGE AT FAITH CONNEXION’S FIRST RUNWAY SHOW IN PARIS IN MARCH. that London or Paris or Los Angeles “is my hometown.” Monet himself is a walking billboard for the company’s sensibility. Clad in a repurposed vintage pajama top, a beat-up Perfecto, and his trademark self-customized jeans, he stands in contrast to the opulence of the surroundings. Faith Connexion’s atelier is currently based in the elegant Hôtel de Pourtalès, in view of the Madeleine. (It is a location that has gained notoriety as the site of the harrowing Kim Kardashian robbery.) “We are doing something together,” Monet says. “We are bringing energies together!” Not just energies but actual personnel: Faith Connexion heartily rejects the model of most high-end brands, which employ a single star designer, in favor of a loosely organized collective—a conceit that might be described, to paraphrase that hoary fashion icon Karl Marx, as “from each according to his—or her—abil- ity.” In this case, the ability refers to the lightning skill at which a tagger signs a pair of jeans or an embellisher creates a giant, glittery Byzantine cross. The invisible hand pulling at least some of the literal strings at Faith Connexion is Christophe Decarnin, formerly the designer for Balmain, and the guy responsible for the revolutionary reinvention of that house in 2006. After five whirlwind years of feathered minidresses, ersatz-military overcoats, and a vast array of artfully wrecked denim, De- carnin left Balmain in 2011. Though the collective is reluctant to discuss his exact role, he remains a backstage presence at Faith Connexion, a ghost in the machine, hovering over the line’s distinctive urban-couture sensibility. It is an aes- thetic that fully embraces the notion of gender-nonspecific clothing and that flaunts a fierce commitment to artisanal detail, even if this means not Lesage embroideries but T-shirts hand-painted with slogans like protect earth. The company’s owner, the loquacious Alex- andre Allard, says he thinks the idea of a single designer is not just passé but also slightly depress- ing. “I always had a problem with the idea that there would be only one amazing designer—I think this is a concept that is going to disappear!” he declares. “We need to give a chance to more creative people.” Allard likens Decarnin to a composer allowing people in the Faith Connex- ion “orchestra” to create their own masterpieces. This orchestra will soon be playing in New York, when a flagship in SoHo opens this sum- mer. Of course, it won’t be a conventional bou- tique: A juice machine from Jean-Georges is on order; neighborhood seamstresses may be recruited to create individualized embroidered flourishes; a rotating cast of artists will be on hand to decorate your jeans or your tee while you wait. “This is a new magic!” Allard says. And in these fraught times, when the earth seems to be shifting under our feet, when all of our assumptions are suddenly up in the air, who doesn’t want a magical one-of-a-kind fringed jacket, joyously tagged and glittering with crazy paste jewels, to at least give the illusion of keeping you happy and safe?  TA L K I N G FA S H I O N > 6 8 VOGUE.COM Talking Fashion