My first Magazine Vogue_USA__June_2017 | Page 121

CÉCILE WINCKLER “Artists have to remain open and independent,” explains Winckler, 31, a New Yorker by way of Paris and her native Belgium. “When artists are tied down to a job, they lose their vision.” It’s a sentiment that led Winckler, whose circle encompasses everyone from actor and artist India Salvor Menuez to Charlotte Casiraghi, to cofound Unemployed, a large-format magazine that she coedits with her partner, Sophie Tabet. Unemployed publishes the work that her art- ist and fashion-photographer friends are most passionate about but which is—so far, at least—of little commercial value. Think of it as a nonprofit gallery without the gallery, and Winckler a kind of postmodern patron of the arts. “It’s a bridge between art and fashion,” she says. “We cre- ate something you could put on your wall.” In most cases, Winckler’s support is what allows the photographers to real- ize their projects at all. Recently she has taken Pierre-Ange Carlotti to the beaches of Marseilles, Harley Weir to Beirut, and Oliver Hadlee Pearch to Savannah, Georgia. And last fall, François Pragnère shot a photo essay at the Burgundy château that belongs to Winckler’s family. “We produce ev- erything together—it’s a whole community, an ecosystem,” she says. So much for not having a job.— MARK GUIDUCCI AMY SALL Sall, a striking 27-year-old Senegalese-American aca- demic—she’s currently a Eugene Lang College lecturer at Manhattan’s New School—has recently lent her face to Kenzo x H&M and J.Crew campaigns. Though her growing exposure in the social and fashion worlds would seem to prove otherwise, her primary focus thes