ADVENTURE
A SIMPLE WAY OF LIFE Finally , we reach the end of the ridge and we go down on a beautiful descent into green pastures , where we meet farmers , cows and sheep . At a small guesthouse , we check our map and the owner comes out to meet us . Her English is limited , and we don ’ t speak the local language , but we understand that she wants to help and is asking if we are looking for accommodation . We ’ ve already booked ahead for the night , but she kindly invites us to have tea and pancakes on her terrace . We soon discover that this is typical of the region – locals are happy to meet tourists and engage , despite the language barrier .
Wherever we stayed , from an airbnb in Plav , Montenegro and a small family-run guesthouse in Theth , Albania , to shepherd huts and chalets in high summer pastures , we always had welcoming hosts . All were happy to discuss the history of their countries , their way of life , the development of tourism in the region , their vision for the future and learn more about our biking trips .
People here live simply , with a small business or activity , two or three cows , a few chickens and a horse . They grow their own vegetables and follow age-old traditions while still being hooked into modern technology like the internet . They welcome tourists , but they ’ re keen to find a balance so that a huge influx of new people doesn ’ t alter their way of life .
THROUGH THE DANGER ZONE Just 10 days before our arrival , two Belgian tourists had died in the snow while hiking these mountains . We like a challenge , but we always travel with a healthy respect for our environment . The weather during our trip is often threatening , with heavy clouds nesting against the mountains , and Cyril keeps a constant eye on what ’ s advancing towards us as we ride . We ’ ve all agreed this is a ‘ good mood ’ trip , so we try to avoid the worst of it .
On the day we ride between Theth and Valbonë in northern Albania , we leave under sunny skies but soon see rain approaching . We let it pass over while we take shelter in a small mountain café and play Uno ( our official card game of the trip , with 3200 rounds played ). When the rain stops , we leave , but 200m from the Valbonë Pass , the storm turns around . We head under the ridge line so we ’ re less
OUR T RIP T OOK EIGHT DAYS AND CROSSED T HREE BORDERS ”
exposed to the elements while it blows over .
Later in the day we need to cross the infamous icy section where the recent accident happened . Following the incident , a detour was created , but this new section has a climb we won ’ t be able to manage with our bikes . Our smiles disappear as
34 | MTB | bucket-list busting