Boot Fit Tips
Always size up - Size up one-half to one full size for general mountaineering, single boots, and one full size for a high altitude or double plastic boot. More room increases circulation and accommodates foot swell at altitude, resulting in warmer feet. A larger boot will also allow room for an orthotic or custom foot bed, which is recommended.
Prevent toe bang - Make sure your toes do not touch the front of the boot. Half of mountain climbing is walking downhill. Toe bang on the descent is painful. Test for this by lacing your boot up tightly and tapping your toe behind you. If your toes feel crunched against the end of the boot, size up.
Comparative Fit - Mountaineering boots do not fit like ski boots or rock climbing shoes. These are not intended for walking in. Mountaineering boots are, so you can expect a looser, roomier fit. Tight mountaineering boots are a recipe for discomfort, decreased circulation, and potential frostbite.
WATCH: Mountaineering Boot Fit with Peter Whittaker and Melissa Arnot
WATCH: Blister Prevention with Peter Whittaker, Melissa Arnot and Ed Viesturs
Blister Prevention Friction is the primary cause of blisters, so be sure to wear socks and boots that fit. The key is to catch a hot spot before it becomes a blister. Our guide team carries medical tape, or duct tape, and applies it at the first sign of a hot spot. This will allow the sock to move and slide on the tape and not your foot. If you are too late and the blister has formed, consider moleskin, a soft, cottony fabric with an adhesive backing. Often the best approach to a fresh blister is to encircle the hot spot with a donut ring of moleskin, which will reduce friction against your boot.
First Impressions - First impressions are huge. Have your sock system on (almost all of our guides wear a single sock, even to the top of Everest), lace up the boots, and walk, stand, sit, tap your toes and scuffle around for 15 minutes. How do they feel?
Brands and Models - Be aware that boot brands and models are shaped differently. If the boot fit is too tight overall, you’re likely in the wrong size. If the boot is pinching in some areas but is loose in others, you’re in the wrong brand or model.