BUCKET LIST he small kingdom of Bhutan , nestled in the Himalayas between India and China , is shrouded in myths . For example , the famous Taktsang Monastery is believed to have been established where a guru landed on the back of a tigress in the 8th century , and the country is adorned with conspicuous phallic symbols , seen in murals and sculptures everywhere . The Bhutanese people are also said to be the happiest in the world as their government prioritises Gross National Happiness over Gross Domestic Product . One day , as if to outdo the legends , my friend and Austrian trials legend Tom Öhler called . “ I heard the Prince of Bhutan is an avid mountain biker who builds trails himself . You ’ ve been there several times . Let ’ s check it out .” It seemed the perfect reason to visit Bhutan again and explore the myths firsthand .
A WELCOME RETURN This is my fifth visit to Bhutan . On my first , in October 2007 , the country was still fresh and unspoiled : television and the internet had only been introduced eight years earlier . The King of Bhutan had done his best to shield his small nation from Western influences . I remember my October visa bore the number 20244 . The kingdom was visited by as many tourists in a year as Disneyland in California sees in a morning .
Tourist numbers were never limited by quotas but by a sustainability fee charged per guest per day . Compared to Nepal , a trip to Bhutan is much more expensive and thus more exclusive . The hotels back then were clean but quite basic . Wifi ? Forget it ! Even driving on the winding , bumpy roads was a grand adventure . The reward was limited numbers at sights and monasteries , and the incredibly openhearted and friendly contacts . Often , I travelled completely alone with my guide and driver . There were no cyclists or bikers to be seen anywhere .
I couldn ’ t have imagined returning almost 20 years later , on a completely different mission : searching for royal trails ! Tom arrived in the capital , Thimphu , a day before I did . Since our phone call , he had connected with the local bike scene through Instagram . From past projects we know – stick to the rear wheel of a local , and you ’ ll find the best trails in the area . Our initial uncertainty about finding a suitable Bhutanese counterpart for Tom quickly vanished . Tandin Wang is considered one of the most talented mountain bikers in Asia , with podium finishes in the Asia Enduro Series . Born and raised in Thimphu , he not only knows the trails around the capital like the back of his hand , but as a mountain bike guide he has explored all of Bhutan with his guests . Along with his bike club , he ’ s also involved in the maintenance and creation of new mountain bike trails in the country . With him we were on track to discover the best bike loops !
ANCIENT TEMPLE TRAILS First on our agenda are the trails around Thimphu where Tandin and his buddies ride almost daily . The biking scene is small but highly motivated . Tom and I were amazed at the incredibly good condition of the paths . Most have been formed naturally over hundreds of years as , before roads were built , they were the only connections between villages and monasteries . Today , they serve mostly as trekking routes for tourists from around the world – and now also as mountain bike trails .
On a windy mountain ridge , we laboriously push our bikes up . Tom and I pant behind Tandin . “ You completely forget we ’ re over 2 500m high here ,” Tom puffs . After a longer pushing section , we finally reach the trailhead at over 3 000m . The expanse of Bhutan ’ s largest city becomes apparent . Almost a fifth of the nearly 800 000 inhabitants live in the capital and its surroundings .
“ From here , it ’ s all downhill , enjoy !” Tandin calls out as he pedals off . Tom struggles to keep his rear wheel in sight on the dusty paths . The local champion knows every inch of the trail . The path is lined with prayer flags fluttering in the wind . Through a corridor of white , blue , red and yellow flags , the two race into the valley . Suddenly , we round a corner and stand before a temple . A scene like out of a video game – it all looks so unreal . We don ’ t have time to catch our breath . I snap a few photos , and we move on , as we don ’ t have much time before sunset . Before we reach our destination , the urban skatepark , we pass one of the largest sitting Buddha statues in the world , towering over the city and protecting it . Wow , what an introduction to Tandin ’ s biking world . And for Tom , a good preview of what Bhutan has to offer .
BITCOINS AND THE MADMAN We encounter very little off-road traffic and are generally surprised at how few foreigners we see , even in the capital . The country hasn ’ t fully recovered from the pandemic tourism-wise . The increase in the sustainability fee for tourists to $ 200 per person per day certainly didn ’ t help and was cut in half after a few months . “ You think this is few people ? Wait until I show you my favourite trail , we ’ ll be almost completely alone ,” Tandin tells us during the briefing for the coming days .
The next morning , our shuttle picks us up early . On a winding road , we leave the densely populated city behind and slowly ascend towards Dochu-La Pass . Before reaching the pass , we leave the main road and enter a dense forest .
After a few minutes , a loud humming sound breaks the silence , right in the middle of nowhere . “ This is top-secret , guys . Our state runs one of the few bitcoin farms here ,” Tandin reveals . Photography is strictly forbidden ! Through the trees , we see the inconspicuous buildings , which sound very conspicuous . A quick internet search confirms Tandin ’ s statement . It ’ s not that secret , but no one really wants to talk to us openly about the Bhutanese crypto industry . No matter , we ’ re here to ride trails , not look for an investment .
Half an hour later , the contrast to the bitcoin farm couldn ’ t be greater . Arriving at the monastery , we unload our bikes . The Madman Trail begins here . The monks admire Tom ’ s riding skills , and the ice is quickly broken . We tour the monastery , receive a blessing from the head monk , and begin our ascent . Through dense forests , we push and ride our bikes on muddy ground until a few hours later we reach another abandoned sanctuary . Mist shrouds the monastery walls . Not a soul in sight . We couldn ’ t have wished for a more mystical setting .
“ Here , at 3 500m above sea level , starts the Madman Trail . Over 2 000m of descent through various vegetation zones await us ,” Tandin explains . Until a few years ago , this trail was forgotten .
32 | MTB | bucket-list busting