Mountain Bike Magazine MTB Autumn 2019 | Page 67

reminder of Napoli’s toxic waste problems. A former industrial estate – a big parcel of oceanfront property near Bagnoli – is now a completely inaccessible and contaminated ghost town due to the corrupt mismanagement of the Camorra mafia, who dumped toxic materials here that poisoned many sites and villages. I have to say, I really embrace e-bikes, even though I’m not ready to give up my regular bikes yet. I love the perks of the pedal assisted bikes. You can pedal further than ever up steeper inclines, and even riding up staircases (and we found lots of them) becomes possible. The pedal- assisted Shimano Steps E8000 is not like a motorcycle, nor does it have a gas throttle, instead it feels like a bicycle with a little extra “va va voom”. It opens up many new ways to enjoy two wheels. Early the next morning we took the ferry from Pozzuoli to Ischia. The island is only 10km by 7km and is towered over by Monte Epomeo. Many believe the mountain is a high energy source, and according to people who believe in a hollow earth theory, it is a gateway to the legendary underworld city of Agharti. It was worth the steep climb to the top at 789m, even though it was raining and we couldn’t enjoy the views until we dropped below the clouds. There was an amazing trail network in the mountains and we got a good dose of real mountain biking after our days in the city. The riding was rather rocky and technical. We passed by thermal hot springs and crossed some vineyards before we ended our day in the picturesque fishing village of Sant’Angelo. I would describe Neapolitans as loud, dramatic gesticulators with effusive emotion, warmth and passion. There is a need to fuel their unrestrained enthusiasm for life with excellent yet simple food, created with the fruit and vegetables that grow rich in flavour under the warmth of the sun and the rich volcanic soil. If you want to experience Italy’s la dolce vita, then head south, because Naples is the epitome of the Italian sweet life. To celebrate the end of our five days in the city, we toasted la dolce vita with some tasty local Limoncello. bucket list busting | MTB | 67