Motorcycle Explorer Nov 2015 Issue 8 | Page 39

We were able to take another track with our bikes to get across . A passing truck was able to use his winch to pull the 4x4 out of the water , but the mechanic needed to take my motorcycle to the next town to locate the tools and supplies needed to clear the water from the flooded engine .
We took a break for lunch as we waited for him to return . I washed down my meal with water straight from the river . Despite being in the middle of the jungle , the water here was pure and fresh . As we waited , I took the opportunity to explore the surrounding terrain and take a few photos of giant ants and wild mushrooms that inhabited the nearby forest .
Finally , the mechanic returned and worked his magic on the waterlogged 4x4 engine . The exhaust blew out water and steam came off the engine as it fired to life . The Toyota Land Cruiser was a remarkable machine- it took a beating in the middle of a river , but still came back to life .
We hit the road again and picked up speed to make up time . Unfortunately , I was already on my reserve tank of fuel . The engine gasped for the last few drops of fuel and died . The 4x4 was at the head of our column , and my fellow bike riders charged after it to bring it back . I was alone in the middle of the countryside- just me and the cattle looking at this strange invader in their land . As I waited , a few cowboys with their dogs passed by and we chatted to pass the time .
My colleagues soon returned with a jerry can of gasoline . I refilled my tank and we soon moved up to where everybody was waiting for us . The Toyota took up the rear , but unbeknown to us , it suffered another damaging blow . The tough vehicle had been pushed to the limit as it traversed the rugged terrain , but now the clutch was burned out .
The other bike riders and myself were pushing hard to reach the farmhouse ahead . We didn ’ t know that the 4x4 had given in . As night fell , it was difficult to navigate across the slippery rocks of the trail . We reached the farm at around 7 pm , wrecked from the long journey , but the rest of our group had more serious problems .
The mechanic and two others reached the farm after walking for about an hour and a half in the dark , but five of our group were still somewhere back in the rainforest . We knew that out here , the woods were crawling with soldiers- both guerilla and army alike . The mechanic took my bike to go back to the others and retrieve their bags . It took about five hours until everybody reached the farm . The mechanic did a brilliant job of retrieving everybody and their gear , but unfortunately our “ mothership ” – the Land Cruiser- was still stranded back in the darkened rain forest . Fatigued from a long day , we ended the night with a beer for celebration . As often seemed to be the case , just as we were falling asleep , the sounds of Mother Nature seemed to be waking up . The jungle truly came alive after dark .
The following morning , we left right after breakfast for the push to our ultimate goal on this journey : the multi-colored river of Caño Cristales . The river was something of a national treasure in Colombia , and was known worldwide as one of the most beautiful rivers in the world . Caño Cristales was variously known as “ the river of five colors ” or “ the liquid rainbow .” The river was like something from another planet . It ran brightly with multi-hued colorations of yellow , green , blue , black- and especially red . Caño Cristales was the crown jewel of this region , and maybe even of Colombia itself .
We crossed a final bridge and at last beheld the magnificent sight of the Caño Cristales . The river was truly a natural wonder . I have seen many beautiful things in my life , but the Caño Cristales was truly fascinating . The bright coloration of the river resulted from a unique geological process . The unique bed of rocks over which the river flowed was formed over a billion years ago . These stones were the natural home of the “ macarenia clavigera ,” a species of plant that turned bright red in the riverbed . Other stones gave rise to equally bright and uniquely colored flora in the river bed .
On our way down the river , we came across the sights of “ Los Ochos ” and Los Pianos ” - clear pools in the river ’ s flow . We crossed through the water before arriving at the beautiful ” Los Cuarzos ” waterfall . At this picturesque spot , we spent some time swimming and relaxing before it was time to return to the farm .
For lunch the chef made us a delicious “ sancocho ” soup . I can ’ t wait to return , if only to taste it again . It seems that life as a farmer can be so peaceful at times . This farm will always feel like a second home to me- especially when the house pet , a parrot named Lorena , is singing a song .