It took almost nine hours to reach the small farm
that was our destination. The bikes and 4x4 were
covered with mud and debris. We were fatigued
from the journey, yet before we knew it, dinner had
been set before us. We stayed in private rooms,
each lit by solar light, and nets kept away the
mosquitoes. Candles lit the common areas.
Compared to being on the road, the farm was
luxurious. At the end of the day, I sat atop the wreck
of an abandoned 4x4 truck, looking out over the
nearby farms. The satisfaction of being here was an
awesome feeling- it was truly a special moment in
my life.
and yellow, balancing on its thread.
More difficult terrain followed. Soon, the 4x4
became stuck in deep tire tracks that cut through
the mud. The occupants had to use the winch to haul
themselves out. As they worked, we spied a
mysterious plant known as the “kissing lips flower,”
or more colloquially, the “hooker’s lips.” It is found
only deep in the rain forest, and we took several
pictures as our companions worked to free the stuck
vehicle.
The terrain became more and more difficult as we
penetrated further into the jungle. At one point, we
were stuck for a full 30 minutes as we searched for
the best way forward. The water here was very
deep, and it almost felt like my motorbike was
swimming. After using a machete to cut through
fallen trees, the navigator eventually found a path
to the other side.
As the sun set, our mechanics Will and Hendrik did
some maintenance on the vehicle. A few locals and
some members of our group kept them company
with a beer or two until late in the evening. We had
some great conversations under the beautiful night
sky lit by scattered stars and a bright moon. It was a
great way to end the evening. Soon I fell asleep
with the living sounds of the jungle that surrounded We were crossing a small wooden bridge when
me whispering in my ears.
catastrophe nearly struck. The wheel of the 4x4
picked up a few wooden planks and dragged them
We woke up early in the morning to get ready for
along. Extricating ourselves from this situation was
“round two” of our battle with the muddy roads. We tricky- if it was done incorrectly, the vehicle could
packed our gear carefully into plastic bags to
have flipped over and ended upside down in the
protect against the rain and splashing water. Our
river below. We tried to use a jack and some logs to
backpacks were secured on the roof of the truck,
jerry-rig a repair, but it didn’t work. Just as we were
strapped in with a cargo belt. Soon, our
about to give up hope, it was as if the cavalry
preparations were complete. We were ready to
arrived: a few local drivers making a delivery.
leave the comforts of the farmhouse and cross back
into the purely natural world of the jungle.
There is a rule here, that is always help the person in
need of it. These guys drive this route daily and are
Colombia is one of the most bio-diverse countries
experts. One strong Colombian driver gave orders
in the world. Almost 2,000 species of birds inhabit
and the others used logs to lift up the dangling
its forests and jungles. It was pleasant to start the
wheel of the 4x4. Soon, the vehicle regained its
day with bright green parrots squawking and flying traction on the bridge, reversed itself, and pulled
over our heads.
out. With this team effort, we were surprised at how
quickly the near-disaster had been resolved.
Even this early in the morning, the cowboys were
already guiding their herds across the wilderness.
Yet after the near-catastrophe on the bridge, the
Sometimes their journeys with their herds last an
worst for the 4x4 was yet to come. The vehicle
entire month. During the trip they sleep in deserted approached a small river, and the driver picked up
farmhouses, or at the homes of other farmers. While speed in an attempt to charge across it. Halfway
we were trying to cross a riverbed, we encountered through the water, the engine died. The 4x4 became
a herd of 50 cows. They were in a deeper part of the bogged down midstream, and the cabin rapidly
riverbed and coming directly at us. Each cow
filled with water. Assorted items such as plastic bags
weighed almost a ton, so it was a pretty intense
containing cell phones and wallets floated inside
experience to be charged by this herd of massive
the vehicle. The drivers held their valuables over
animals. As we paused to regroup, the mechanic
their heads as they waded back to shore.
showed us an animal that was much smaller, yet
seemed just as deadly- a pretty spider colored black