Motorcycle Explorer Jan 2017 Issue 15 | Page 33

White Knuckles and the Call of Africa Even though our off road exploits mostly included graded dirt tracks and gravel roads winding along the scenic Mediterranean coast and across spectacular gorges and canyons, I did have a few white – knuckled moments trying to keep still and help Paul negotiate the steep slopes of the mountains. Holding on to our Jesse panniers (now serving as grocery bags on our weekly trips to Heraklion’s supermarkets) for dear life, I’d do my best to be a Rather Useful Sack of Potatoes making sure I didn’t mess with Paul’s efforts to keep the bike upright on baby head - sized boulders and fine gravel, while we rumbled and tumbled down the scorched ravines and little trails running off in different directions under the shade of olive trees. Sometimes, I’d attempt to film and photograph our brave endeavors in the secluded valleys and rocky hills, only to find myself dangling precariously off balance, about to topple us both and the bike over. When riding on tarmac, the only necessities of a pillion rider is warm underwear and a fully charged Kindle; being a passenger off road is a whole different story… and I have to confess: riding in Crete made me hunger for more. Here, I’m not just a passive observer anymore: aside from my main job - not to mess with Paul’s driving and the balance of the bike – I’m now also tasked with jumping off and running ahead to check if the track is still passable past a blind turn, spotting the most picturesque stretches of road for photos, and battling my ever - growing suspicion of heights and cliff edges. And so, as we head for the southern part of the island again, rattling and bouncing along the gravel tracks by the coast, I can’t help but look out to the sea and think of Africa. So close now, the Dark Continent has always been an obsession of mine; and while I do realize that taking a humongous bike for a race across Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco is a waste of good o ff road fun, I often catch myself wishing there was a ferry line to North Africa from Crete. ENDS