The morning dawned clear and with my altitude sickness gone , I made an early start out of the valley and up the Gata Loops a series of 21 hairpin bends providing panoramic views of the valley and mountains . A couple of bridges that would give Health and Safety Officers considerable pause for thought and I ’ d made it to Pang – the first of the real Ladakhi settlements and comprising mostly of tents made out of parachutes serving as all-purpose shelters and restaurants . I tasted my first momos – a typical Tibetan dish which resemble a cross between ravioli and stuffed dumplings . Passing on the ones stuffed with yak meat I select a vegetarian version and wash them down with spiced chai , the combo of hot , sweet drink and heavy dumplings ensures I ’ m ready for the cold road ahead . The Enfield gets some fuel from the jerry can out the back of the restaurant tent making the proprietor using coke bottles as a way to measure the amount and making it easier to pour into the tank . Ahead I find more hairpin bends and high passes , passing nomads and their yurts on the way , with yak grazing by the road and some even ambling across in front of me . One more mountain , the Tanglang La pass at 5328m a very high one indeed , again no pause for photos as it ’ s too damn cold . Down the zigzag road to the valley below where the Indus River flows and some of my favourite riding to date , a picturesque route alongside the river and with spectacular rock formations on each side , reflecting the setting sun .
" the combo of hot , sweet drink and heavy dumplings ensures I ’ m ready for the cold road ahead "
A night at Upshi a small riverside town , I slept in a room which is usually rented out by the bed space to truckers but which I was assured would be for my sole use and thus maintaining my good reputation ( they ’ ve obviously never met me before !). The next morning after a breakfast of parathas and dhal ( lentil curry ) my ride took me past impressive Buddhist monasteries in amazing settings beside the river , lots of photo opportunities and crowds of Buddhist monks in their maroon and orange robes . Some of whom were hitch-hiking , I was so tempted , but I know there is strict etiquette around Buddhist monks and their contact with women and I didn ’ t want to make life tricky for them . The image of a monk riding side-saddle behind me is a nice one though .
I ’ d made it , the dusty town of Leh rose on the hill ahead of me , wearily I rode the last few miles . It ’ s not exactly a buzzing metropolis , with a population of 25,000 plus a lot of stray dogs and donkeys . I ’ d survived my ride through the Himalayas with a lot of great memories and only one blizzard .