Motorcycle Explorer February 2015 Issue 4 | Page 136

It ’ s July , I ’ m in India and I ’ m riding a Royal Enfield bullet 500cc bike , then it starts to get surreal , because I ’ m battling my way through a blizzard at almost 5000m and it ’ s cold . The hellish temperatures of 46 ° C down in Delhi are definitely a distant memory , as I attempt to overtake over laden trucks in poor visibility on these narrow mountain tracks . I ’ d been told that the best time to explore Ladakh and the Himalayas is in the early summer when the spring thaw is well underway and the passes are open once more . Maybe I should have paid more attention ( story of my life ) when they said the passes are usually open . I ’ m riding a turquoise Enfield and doing a recce for the group Ladies in Ladakh , an all-female group of riders which I ’ ll be leading from the foothills of the Himalayas to the heart of Ladakh , undeniably one of India ’ s most fascinating and beautiful regions . The bike is one of the new generation of Enfields ; they boast an electric start , don ’ t leak oil or have reliability problems , or have the gear change lever and brake pedal on the opposite side from what we ’ re used to at home ( unless you happen to ride old British bikes ). Perhaps you can tell , I ’ d been on the receiving end of several dark and dire warnings about riding Enfields but I ’ m pleased and proud to report that it never let me down once . Ladakh is a small region in the far north of India , deep in the Himalayas and known as Little Tibet , as the people mostly follow Buddhism and are Tibetan in language , appearance , dress , food and in their way of life . It ’ s an area that the British never built hill stations in due to the difficulties in getting there , which has meant that for a very long time it was undisturbed by tourism . All the more reason for me to visit , especially as I ’ d developed a liking for all things Tibetan on a previous journey in Asia .

My journey had started at Dehradun in the foothills and the ride north was tame enough once I ’ d got used to the congestion , cows and crazy driving habits that are prevalent on the roads of the sub-continent . To be honest I get an adrenaline rush riding through the chaos , weaving my way between the food vendors , crammed buses , tuk-tuks and brightly painted lorries . Manali is the gateway town to the Himalayas in a scenic setting ringed by mountains with the mighty Rohtang to the north - where the real adventure begins , the first of the high passes to conquer a snip at 3998m .

I soon get into the rhythm of mountain riding , the poor condition of the roads , sharp curves and incredible views and scenery . Another plus is it ’ s great to be travelling in a country where English is so widely spoken ; actually being able to converse freely is a wonderful feeling . In almost every conversation , surprise is expressed that I ’ m a woman riding a motorbike and then even more so that I ’ m travelling alone . I stop at small roadside stands for snacks like samosas , stuffed parathas and cups of steaming hot chai ( tea ) flavoured with cardamom and other spices . I ’ m riding about 250-300 kms a day , trying to cover as much of the tour as possible , it might not seem very far when thinking about it at home , but on these roads it is a challenge and each day I am exhausted as I climb into my bed- generally in a hotel at the cheaper end of the spectrum . From Rohtang onwards the altitude was affecting me , a headache that kicks in , not vicious , just enough to remind me that there is a distinct lack of oxygen in the air which also makes me feel more lethargic . If I was travelling and ascending more slowly , I know I wouldn ’ t have felt like this .