Motorcycle Explorer December 2014 Issue 3 | Page 226

O n again in a long sleeved shirt this time for welcome relief from the burning heat, after another stop for water and Fanta, we refuel. Disaster! John, in his heat addled state has filled with diesel. Even a Vmax doesn’t run well on it, so, through sign language and a little halting Italian, we make the attendants understand and fetch a tube and bottle as we attempt to syphon 12 litres from the tank. Park in the shade, gear off, boots off, helmet off, pace the forecourt and drain another 2 bottles of Fanta. John’s in shorts, t’shirt and sandals, not exactly the safest gear for the ‘strada, but we’re all in loose cotton tops or t- shirts. It’s unbearably hot and the sun continues to beat down mercilessly. He’s a mess of sweat and snobs as the tank is finally drained and refilled and we take a little further refuge from the sun and enjoy the respite while we gather ourselves for the final assault. Once more into the breach, a further stretch of the dreaded ‘strada and we’re finally at our destination of Novi Liguri, a busy little industrial town just off the motorway. Looping around the one way system once or twice, we eventually find our hotel. A faded, once glorious façade, leads on to gently dignified rooms. There’s no-one on duty, the kitchens closed, but the night porter is prevailed upon to feed us. After a lightning fast shower, we’re sat with knives and forks at the ready. We have the first three starters and the first three pasta courses on the menu, keeping it simple and signifying we’d like to share them between us. The waiter seems pleased with our choice and brings us a fine selection of cold meats with delicious fresh pasta, accompanied by the local Gavi wine. He’s enjoying us, enjoying the food, so we ask him to choose three deserts and are rewarded by a selection of delicate, delicious sweets to finish. Thoroughly sated, we leave him a big tip for his trouble, leave the now empty restaurant and hit the hay. We’re up early the next day to beat the midday sun, down the now cool ‘strada and the Med hovers into view. We follow the Autoroute du Soleil. Dancing through endless cooling tunnels, stunning glimpses of a glistening Med to our left, the hills of Liguria to our right.