Motorcycle Explorer December 2014 Issue 3 | Page 16

EN ROUTE
pavement. However, in Kurdistan there was no
trace of American soldiers. The guys who meet
me at the check points were all young Kurds in
their new uniforms. They were friendly and
talkative. I was continually stopped and delayed
for a few minutes to satisfy their curiosity with
innocuous questions, presentations and
handshakes. They just wanted to chat and take
pictures. Many photos. "Mister, mister, " they
said. That was The Word. I was a "mister" and
therefore I was not a terrorist or a threat to
Kurdistan. Being a "mister", that was my best ally.
"friendly and
talkative"
T
he most striking part of the road was the
terrible asphalt's deformation. The heat, coupled
with relentless passage of heavy military
convoys, had drawn a wave of tar on the