W
e start riding
to Tripoli, the capital of Libya. It’s a busy road
with some crazy driving. We had already been
warned of the poor driving skills in Libya and
the drivers live up to our expectations! We are
constantly overtaken by ‘low flying cars’. The
road is in good condition and we make good
progress. Alongside the road we see a lot of
building sites. Homes are being repaired and
even entire new neighbourhoods are built. The
country is clearly recovering from a rough time
and starting over. What is striking is the huge
number of national flags. Since the revolution,
Libya has adopted a new flag, which we see
everywhere. It’s painted on walls, on garages,
hanging from streetlights and traffic signs, but
also proudly flapping atop buildings and from
car windows.
He honks his way through the traffic jam,
clearing the way for us. We stop in a residential
area in Tripoli and are introduced to Omar. He
tells us in perfect English about his
motorcycles, the motorcycle club of Tripoli and
the Libyan Motorcycle Federation. While we are
talking, more and more people join. Just like at
the border, everybody takes out their mobile
phones and cameras to takes pictures of us and
pose in front of the bikes. They want to show us
the city of Tripoli, before we continue to Al
Khoms. We cannot stay very long, but we agree
to go with them to the main square. We follow
Omar’s car, while the others stop the oncoming
traffic by parking in the middle of the road.
Almost like a police escort.
The main square of Tripoli is beautiful, with a
large fountain, high ancient pillars and a
beautiful old fortress. Omar shows us the
balcony where Gadaffi used to make his
speeches and tells us how the city was
liberated. Once again, it becomes clear how
proud they are of their country and how much
they want tourists to visit it. More people join
to say hello, some have been called over by
Omar and his friends, but others are random
passers-by. They ask where we are from, where
The closer we get to Tripoli, the busier it is on
we are going and what we think of Libya. They
the road. All four of us are excited and maybe a thank us for visiting and ask us to tell our
bit anxious about riding here. We agreed it
friends to come as well. When we are ready to
would be a good idea to keep a low profile, but leave, Peter is stopped by a man who wants to
we attract significant attention on our bikes.
give him something. The man walks to his car
People in overtaking cars wave at us, give us
and comes back with a Libyan flag, the one we
thumbs up or make the “V’ for victory. People
have been seeing everywhere. He hands over
even hang from the window of their car to take the flag and says: “Welcome to Libya, my
pictures while yelling: “Welcome to Libya!
friend!”
Thank you for visiting!” Just before we reach
the centre of Tripoli, we find ourselves in a
We are given another escort to the outskirts of
traffic jam. A car pulls up next to us, the driver
the city. Omar and his friends waive us
gets out and walks towards us. We are a bit on goodbye only after we have promised to call
guard at first, but that quickly changes when
them if we need anything. We continue our way
the man smiles and spreads out his arms. He
and arrive in Al Khoms a few hours later. We
welcomes us to Libya and tells us that he is a
call Mo’s friend Youssef and find him at the
biker too. He wants to introduce us to the
entrance of Leptis Magna. Youssef appears to
Chairman of the Libyan Motorcycle Federation be an official guide at the ancient Roman site
and asks us to follow him. We are not sure
and wants to give us a tour. Great! We park our
what to think of it, but decide to follow him
bikes next to the security guards and follow
anyway.
Youssef to the ticket office. When we take out
our wallet to pay for the tickets, he waves his
hand to say it’s not necessary; he will pay for