MOST Magazine Fashion Oct'14 ISSUE NO.2 | Page 136
NEW WORLD COUTURE
ARTICLE WRITTEN BY SARA ANGELUCCI // PHOTOS COURTESY OF STYLE.COM
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK- In a time when fast fashion rules and a trend can start instantly over social networks,
designers brought individual ideas stretching the boundaries between high fashion and contemporary clothing to the Ready to
Wear runways. Fashion week started off white from head to toe in New York and ended up in a floral, plaid frenzy, while other
designers opted for minimalism mixing vintage and modern vibes, taking a new modern approach to old world couture.
Jason Wu takes a clean linear direction to American sportswear, standing out from the rest at New York Fashion Week. Drawing
inspiration from vintage Dior, Chanel and Balenciaga plugging in modern fabric to vintage silhouettes. We see this trend also
appear on the Paris runways. Dior revived classic vintage silhouettes but also integrated new cuts with a modern appeal as an
evolution of the houses design process.
Paris Fashion Week brought an
inflow of creative ideas and concepts
where others were lacking. Vionnet
designer Goga Ashkenazi dominated
the runway referencing Madame Grès
pleating, and edgy bondage detailing
reminiscent of Zana Banye harnesses
into high couture gowns. The
mixture of classic design elements
with a contemporary edge was
phenomenal, creating goddess-esque
looks in thigh highs. The house of
Vionnet has definitely proven to be
revived since its closure in 1939 and
resurrection eight years ago. Staying
true to its bias cut claim to fame,
Vionnet is the right cut fit for a
queen.
Jason Wu
Vionnet
Vionnet
Jason Wu
Vintage
Balenciaga
Vintage
Madame Gres
Vintage
Balenciaga
Vintage
Chanel
Vintage
Vionnet
Balenciaga
This season has brought a new
exciting take on fashion. We are
seeing designers like Alexander Wang
at Balenciaga, bring new daring looks
to the runway playing with
transparency, juxtaposing shapes and
silhouettes as well as creating unique
surface details in-house at some of
Europe’s most talented fabric mills.
There is a definite ease to the designs
on the runway. Clothing is looser,
more contemporary with a vintage
flair. This design formula of Modern
and vintage is the strong direction
designers took with their collections
this season. Many designers executed
this through proportion, fabric and
silouette. Drawing inspiration from
old world couture, infusing it with
modern contemporary elements
arriving at what I coin the term New
World Couture.
Vintage
Madame Gres
Dior
Dior
Rodarte
Designer Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent and Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte completely went on there own creative journey
bringing us into a world they created. Setting their own trends for spring summer 2015, the Rodarte sisters drew inspiration from tide
pools, creating beautiful handcrafted artistic gowns that glittered like sun on the ocean and had textures that emulated kelp and coral.
Hands down the sisters have created one of the most wearable and most creative collection on the runway. The newly appointed designer
of Yves St. Laurent Hedi Slimane has definitely infused the label with a sense of vitality. Revising the whole look of the fashion house,
targeting younger clientele with hip short denim skirts, sequins and platform heels transporting us back to the 60s and 70s. This
collection reminds me of the film “Almost Famous” staring Kate Hudson. The inspiration must be a direct influence from the fashion
houses’ recent move to Los Angeles. I can only speak for myself but I definitely will be going out to get myself a pair of vintage
Rodarte
platforms to romp around Sunset Blvd.