MOST Magazine Fashion Oct'14 ISSUE NO.2 | Page 136

NEW WORLD COUTURE ARTICLE WRITTEN BY SARA ANGELUCCI // PHOTOS COURTESY OF STYLE.COM NEW YORK FASHION WEEK- In a time when fast fashion rules and a trend can start instantly over social networks, designers brought individual ideas stretching the boundaries between high fashion and contemporary clothing to the Ready to Wear runways. Fashion week started off white from head to toe in New York and ended up in a floral, plaid frenzy, while other designers opted for minimalism mixing vintage and modern vibes, taking a new modern approach to old world couture. Jason Wu takes a clean linear direction to American sportswear, standing out from the rest at New York Fashion Week. Drawing inspiration from vintage Dior, Chanel and Balenciaga plugging in modern fabric to vintage silhouettes. We see this trend also appear on the Paris runways. Dior revived classic vintage silhouettes but also integrated new cuts with a modern appeal as an evolution of the houses design process. Paris Fashion Week brought an inflow of creative ideas and concepts where others were lacking. Vionnet designer Goga Ashkenazi dominated the runway referencing Madame Grès pleating, and edgy bondage detailing reminiscent of Zana Banye harnesses into high couture gowns. The mixture of classic design elements with a contemporary edge was phenomenal, creating goddess-esque looks in thigh highs. The house of Vionnet has definitely proven to be revived since its closure in 1939 and resurrection eight years ago. Staying true to its bias cut claim to fame, Vionnet is the right cut fit for a queen. Jason Wu Vionnet Vionnet Jason Wu Vintage Balenciaga Vintage Madame Gres Vintage Balenciaga Vintage Chanel Vintage Vionnet Balenciaga This season has brought a new exciting take on fashion. We are seeing designers like Alexander Wang at Balenciaga, bring new daring looks to the runway playing with transparency, juxtaposing shapes and silhouettes as well as creating unique surface details in-house at some of Europe’s most talented fabric mills. There is a definite ease to the designs on the runway. Clothing is looser, more contemporary with a vintage flair. This design formula of Modern and vintage is the strong direction designers took with their collections this season. Many designers executed this through proportion, fabric and silouette. Drawing inspiration from old world couture, infusing it with modern contemporary elements arriving at what I coin the term New World Couture. Vintage Madame Gres Dior Dior Rodarte Designer Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent and Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte completely went on there own creative journey bringing us into a world they created. Setting their own trends for spring summer 2015, the Rodarte sisters drew inspiration from tide pools, creating beautiful handcrafted artistic gowns that glittered like sun on the ocean and had textures that emulated kelp and coral. Hands down the sisters have created one of the most wearable and most creative collection on the runway. The newly appointed designer of Yves St. Laurent Hedi Slimane has definitely infused the label with a sense of vitality. Revising the whole look of the fashion house, targeting younger clientele with hip short denim skirts, sequins and platform heels transporting us back to the 60s and 70s. This collection reminds me of the film “Almost Famous” staring Kate Hudson. The inspiration must be a direct influence from the fashion houses’ recent move to Los Angeles. I can only speak for myself but I definitely will be going out to get myself a pair of vintage Rodarte platforms to romp around Sunset Blvd.