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Japanese ( refined ) and Italian ( rustic ) cuisines is no culinary ruse ,” wrote The Record ’ s food editor Esther Davidowitz after dining at one of the pop-ups . “ It is aculinary triumph .”
But instead of invite-only guest lists , last-minute texts revealing venues and $ 295 multi-course tasting menus , Pasta Ramen offers reservations , apermanent address and dishes alacarte , most priced between $ 15 and $ 25 , though there isa $ 99 aged Waygu steak for those who want to splurge . Just as with an Italian menu , there are antipasti , primi and secondi sections . Similarly , you ’ ll find bao and ramen as you would on aJapanese menu .
“ I ’ m not into fusion food , but this didn ’ t feel like fusion ,” says Lisa Chun , who threw her birthday party at Pasta Ramen in early January , before it opened . “ I love Japanese and Ilove Italian , and it paired really nicely together . Itdidn ’ t feel forced .”
Chun , who lives in River Vale , got in on the ground floor . When reservations opened , the restaurant was almost immediately booked amonth out : 2,800 tables — about 100 each night — were reserved in one day .
The restaurant is BYO . “ Staying true to Jersey and having it be BYOB is not the worst thing — Idokind of love it ,” says Felice .“ I ’ m excited for us to do this with aliquor license eventually , but I feel like ( right now ) that makes it more Jersey-esque .”
Felice , who also owns Viaggio in Wayne and Osteria Crescendo in Westwood and was nominated for the Rising Star Chef award bythe James Beard Foundation , says he hopes people who know Pasta Ramen-the-popup will be ready for Pasta Ramen-therestaurant .
“ We wanted togive diners the chance tosee the more casual side of Pasta Ramen , but Ithink Pasta Ramen ( the popup ) is put on such apedestal now that we have to create this same elegance that we had in the omakase ,” he says .“ To have super elegant , chefdriven food , but have afun experience — and that ’ s definitely what we ’ re trying to do .”
As if your Italian grandmother were toearn aMichelin star .
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“ What Robbie is doing here isreally revolutionary and doesn ’ t exist ,” says Simons . “ It ’ ssuper-disruptive to the food and beverage scene and Ithink it ’ s going to be really incredible .” Walking into the restaurant , you get that feeling .
SLEEK , FUN AND UNIQUELY PERSONAL
Inside Pasta Ramen , copper pendants light the counter of an open kitchen . Blond wood chairs brighten black walls and banquettes . Soft pink blossoms on tall cherry trees grace the center of the room ; graffiti murals with bold lines and colors pop on the walls . Trytospot in the murals the references to the partners ’ other restaurants , children — even cats .
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TASTE SENSATION Robbie Felice ( left ), is chef and co-owner , with Luck Sarabhayavanija , of Pasta Ramen . What began as aspeakeasy-style pop-up now has abrick and mortar home in Montclair .
“ My cats ’ names are upthere as well ,” laughs Felice .“ Ishould really say ‘ my kids .’ We don ’ t call them cats , they ’ re my kids . SoTruffle and Mochi ’ s names are right there dead center .”
Felice and Sarabhayavanija were going for a “ super vibe-y ” feel , says Felice .“ The whole concept is meant to be vibe-y , fun , loud music ,” he says .“ I feel like everyone has been to that loud New York City restaurant and you walk in and you can almost feel the vibe . I ’ m surrounded by the right people and everything is going to take shape .”
“ When you walk into this restaurant , from the second you ’ re greeted to the second you leave the door , you ’ ll experience what true hospitality is ,” says Simon .“ We ’ re really trying to stand out to create memorable events for all of our guests — whether you ’ re celebrating your anniversary or you ’ re celebrating your divorce , whatever the reason you ’ re here , we ’ ll besure to take care ofyou .” ■
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ANNE-MARIE CARUSO |
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32 SPRING 2023 MONTCLAIR MAGAZINE |