Montclair Magazine Spring 2019 | Page 48

dining out Food to Make a Thai Grandma Proud Former Spice II chef/owner opens Kai Yang WRITTEN BY ESTHER DAVIDOWITZ PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNE-MARIE CARUSO ANI RAMEN R estaurateur Sheree Sarabhaya, 60, wanted to retire. The owner of Spice II in Montclair and Boon Thai Kitchen in Livingston had no plans of opening yet another restaurant. Her son, Luck Sarabhayavanija, 35, however, had other plans... for his mother. Sarabhayavanija, owner of the popular Ani Ramen restaurant 46 SPRING 2019 MONTCLAIR MAGAZINE Montclair KAI YANG 345 BLOOMFIELD AVE. (973) 509-2110 KAIYANGNJ.COM that began life in Montclair, spawned a clone in Jersey City and is duplicat- ing itself in Summit and Maplewood, implored his mom to open a Thai restaurant that served the food his grandma cooked — casual, unpretentious Thai street food. “It’s the food he grew up with,” says Sarabhaya, “the food my mom cooked.” It wasn’t, however, until her son used that laudatory word “honor,” as in “Do it to honor grandma,” that Sarabhaya, a Bangkok native, caved. “I couldn’t say no to that,” she says. The Bloomfield resident closed