Yo� �ay not get it at �rst �the ��estion is asked with tong�e �r�ly planted in cheek ���t , tr�st �e , yo� will as soon yo� glance at the �en�� The answer sho�ld �eco�e o�vio�s , �nless , that is , yo�r local pi��eria offers cock� tails that spew white s�oke and sport her�al inf�sions� serves creative , elevated dishes like sweet plantains swaddled in ho�se�ade �n��da vinaigrette and �ade��y�hand �e��i rigatoni enveloped in aWagy� �eef cheeks Bolognese� and , oh yes , �akes their pi��a , which is darn good , in apan�

That ’ s right , this f�nky , �oistero�s , �0,000�s��are foot , two�story resta�rant ’ s slogan is �scratch kitchen , cocktail parlo�r �� �wait for it ��pi��a too�� It slings �etroit� style pi��a , the kind of pi��a that is as rare in the Garden State as Rena�lts in �etroit�

What ’ s also rare� Bl�e Steel ho�ses a20�seat speakeasy that ’ s open Th�rsday thro�gh Sat�rday� Yo� can en�oy yo�r �etroit�style pi��a and anything else on the �en� in that secret �ar , or in one of the resta�rant ’ s two s�per�di� dining roo�s� �Yo� ’ ll need yo�r phone ’ s �ashlight to read the �en���

��etroit�style pi��a is as�per�niche food , � says chef and co�owner Lawrence Talis , who cops to �eing a�h�ge fan of pi��a�� B�t �etroit�style �apie �aked in arectang�lar , traditionally �l�e�steel pan , the kind once �sed �y a�toworkers �ishis favorite� Talis ’ s ��si� ness partner is Brian Costello�

After yo� sink yo�r teeth into Bl�e Steel ’ s pie , �ade with a�lend of �o��arella cheese and traditional Wisconsin �rick cheese that �elts down the side of the pie , �aking for a��rnt , gooey , cheesy cr�st , it ��st �ight �eco�e yo�r favorite too� If yo� ’ re athick cr�st ��ff �co�nt �e in� , yo� ’ re in l�ck� The �etroit�style do�gh is hefty , like afocaccia ��t �ore ��ffy� it can acco��odate toppings well�

Toppings s�ch as ricotta and sa�sage , which , Talis says , is his diners ’ favorite as well as his� Ne�t in line for �ost loved pie is the E��o pep� peroni st�dded with tangy �anana peppers� My dining co�panion and Igot the �classic , � asi�ple red sa�ce and cheese pie , which we thoro�ghly en�oyed�

B�t yo� haven ’ t co�e to Bl�e Steel �i��a Co� to ��st have pi��a� Having already esta�lished that this is not ��st another pi��eria , yo� ’ ve co�e to have yo�r palate sti��lated and yo�r c�linary hori�ons e�panded�

May Is�ggest that yo� �egin yo�r c�linary e�plorations with one of the cocktails that �i�ologist Lo�ie Lo� Narvae� , the g�y �ehind Bl�e Steel ’ s speakeasy Ra��it Hole , concocts� O�r waiter to�ted the Cos�o , �ade with �etel One vodka , as �the �est ever�� It ’ s good , ��t the �est� Nah� Try the lovely colored and refreshing Easy �easy , �ade with gin , hi�isc�s� inf�sed Ca�pari and pineapple ��ice� �erfect on ahot s���er day�

Good too �switching fro� �oo�e to gr�� �isthe steak tartare toast� It �ay taste so�e� what fa�iliar , like that well�known A�erican sandwich , the cheese��rger , ��t then again , it looks nothing like one , even if it incorpo� rates all the co�ponents� ��n �a thick slice of toasted cia�atta�� �eat �slightly seared steak�� to�ato �to�ato aioli�� pickles �tart and sweet cornichons� , with white cheddar cheese and pickled ��stard seeds folded into the whole she�ang� Again , not yo�r typical pi��eria�

Or consider getting the t�na ��g�ac� app � if , that is , yo� aren ’ t salivating for g�aca�ole� The t�na , raw and �nely chopped , is laced with chipotle aioli and served with e�cellent large� si�ed ho�e�ade chips that yo� can �se to scoop �p the �sh as yo� wo�ld g�aca�ole , the traditional avocado dip�

Speaking of avocado , where is it in this �g�ac�� It ’ s s��tle� it co�es in the for� of �o�sse that is piped into the dish� Talis sees this dish as across �etween t�na tartare and Me�ican tostada� Across that �ay not �e to everyone ’ s liking , especially if yo� like yo�r g�ac witho�t ��otation �arks�

Love pasta� The ho�e�ade stro��apreti pasta covered with �oldly �avored la�� rag� is pretty straightforward , save for the da� of garlic la�neh and sprinkle of pine n�ts� It is delicio�s�

Love chocolate� Try the silky s�ooth choc� olate ganache cake �ecked with sea salt� The co��ination �sweet and salty �isaho�e r�n� Ale�on �l�e�erry po�nd cake str�ck o�t , however� �land and forgetta�le�

Still , yo� ’ ve gotta ad�ire aresta�rant that apparently isn ’ t afraid to ai� high , to keep trying so�ething new and different� One that apparently is not afraid to keep trying so�ething new and different� Indeed , ��st a �onth or so ago , Talis and Costello opened a ra�en spot ro�ghly seven doors down fro� Bl�e Steel called �dr�� roll �Seven �oors �own Ra�en Co� And , y�p , it ’ s not like �ost any other ra�en spot� It not only serves �BLT� ra�en �ra�en with �acon , to�ato con�t and ar�g�la� , ��t Nikkei dishes , which f�se �apanese and �er�vian c�isine�

Are yo� ready for t�na sashi�i �athed in leche de tigre and sprinkled a�i panca ��er�vian red pepper�� Ia�� ■

�ANIELLE �ARHI��ARAN