dining out
Oh-Em-Gee Neapolitan
Small but impressive Bivio delights lovers of classic pizza
WRITTEN BY ESTHER DAVIDOWITZ PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNE-MARIE CARUSO
Montclair
BIVIO PANIFICIO
107 PINE STREET
(973) 941-9602, BIVIOPIZZA.COM
F
eel like pizza tonight?
Consider Bivio Pizza
Napoletana, a small,
casual, off-the-beaten-
path neighborhood
joint in Montclair that
opened its doors a year and a half
ago.
To avoid disappointment before
you head out, though, be aware
of the pizzeria’s considerable number
of no-nos: No reservations; no take-
out; no delivery; no doggie bags; no
alcohol (it’s BYO); no groups larger
than five; no slices; no lunch; and no
dinner Sunday through Tuesday.
And know that Bivio only has
24 seats and only five pizzas on its
menu, though it does offer two spe-
cial pies the four nights it is open.
Don’t, however, let those restric-
tions stop you from rushing over to
Bivio to try to nab a table. If you are
craving pizza, specifically Neapolitan
pizza, specifically sublime Oh-Em-
Gee Neapolitan pizza, Bivio is
one big “yes.”
Just take a look at that massive
wood-burning oven as you step inside
the cozy, light-filled dining room.
Right in front of that striking, cus-
tom-made heat source, spot 65-year-
old owner and pizzaiolo Tomasso
Colao steadfastly composing pies
using, he assures us, quality ingredi-
ents, many imported from Italy.
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