aisteb1973
Front neck shaping
In the next WS row BO 17( 17, 19) middle sts and work until the end of the row. Turn work. Both sides will be worked separately from this point forward. First work the left side. Make decreases to shape the neck hole in the following way. * Work WS to the last 2 sts, purl 2 tog. Turn, BO 3 sts, work to the end, turn. Repeat from * one more time. * Work WS to the end, turn. Knit 2 first sts tog, work to the end, turn. Repeat from * 4 more times. Then work without further shaping. Make 188 rows of the lace pattern total( count rows along the side line).
Left shoulder shaping with short rows
Work 189 RS row. In the next WS row work to the last 8 sts, wrap the next st and turn, work RS row to the end. * In the next WS row work to the 7 sts before wrapped st, wrap the next st and turn. Work RS row to the end. Rep from * 2 more times. Work the entire WS alignment row, working on all wrapped stitches. Do not bind off the stitches, transfer all stitches to a non-working needle. Leave a long yarn tail for three needles BO for shoulders later.
For the right side re-join the yarn. The right side is worked the same as the left one, reversing all shaping. Work 188 rows of the lace pattern total.
Right shoulder shaping with short rows
In the next RS row work until 8 last sts, wrap the next st, turn and work WS row to the end. * In the next RS row work to the 7 sts before wrapped st, wrap the next st and turn. Work WS row to the end. Rep from * 2 more times. Work the entire RS alignment row, working on all wrapped stitches. Work one more WS row. Do not BO stitches, transfer all stitches to a non-working needle.
Sleeve( make 2)
With US3( 3,25 mm) needles CO 65( 72, 79) sts with the long tail method. Purl the first row( WS). Then work 2 first rows of the sleeve chart( sleeve rib). Rep 4 times(= 8 rows total). Then continue with the lace pattern( the 3d and the 4th rows of the sleeve chart). Use the same US3( 3,25 mm) needles for the first row of the lace pattern, and the first row of the lace pattern is increase row: selvage st, twisted yarn over, work the pattern until the selvage st, twisted yarn over, selvage st. Then change to US4( 3,5 mm) needles. Repeat increase row 6 more times every 4th row. Now you have 79( 86, 93) sts on needles. Include increased sts in the stitch pattern. Work 28 rows of the lace pattern total and end with WS row.
Sleeve cap shaping
Work the next RS row to the 9 last sts, wrap the next st and turn, work WS row to the 10 last sts, wrap the next st and turn. * In the next RS row work to the 7 sts before wrapped st, wrap the next st and turn, work WS row to the 7 sts before wrapped st, wrap the next st and turn. Rep from * 2( 3, 3) more times. Work entire RS and WS alignment rows, working on all wrapped stitches. Do not bind off the stitches, transfer all stitches to a non-working needle. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing in sleeves.
Summary of improved fitting:
1. The difference between the front( 194 rows) and the back( 190 rows) along the side line is 4 rows. Thus the back armhole is 4 rows longer than the front armhole. 2. Shoulder line slope is higher on the back by 2 rows. Finished back neck is lifted by 6 rows or 2 cm. 3. Height of horizontal bust darts is 6( 8, 10) rows or 2( 2,5, 3) cm. 4. Hidden vertical bust darts are made with skipping 6( 7, 6) yarn overs and equalize the initial difference of back and front necklines width.
All images, text, and illustrations © Aistė Butkevičienė, 2016 @ aisteb1973 8