aisteb1973
Front neck shaping
In the next WS row BO 17 ( 17 , 19 ) middle sts and work until the end of the row . Turn work . Both sides will be worked separately from this point forward . First work the left side . Make decreases to shape the neck hole in the following way . * Work WS to the last 2 sts , purl 2 tog . Turn , BO 3 sts , work to the end , turn . Repeat from * one more time . * Work WS to the end , turn . Knit 2 first sts tog , work to the end , turn . Repeat from * 4 more times . Then work without further shaping . Make 188 rows of the lace pattern total ( count rows along the side line ).
Left shoulder shaping with short rows
Work 189 RS row . In the next WS row work to the last 8 sts , wrap the next st and turn , work RS row to the end . * In the next WS row work to the 7 sts before wrapped st , wrap the next st and turn . Work RS row to the end . Rep from * 2 more times . Work the entire WS alignment row , working on all wrapped stitches . Do not bind off the stitches , transfer all stitches to a non-working needle . Leave a long yarn tail for three needles BO for shoulders later .
For the right side re-join the yarn . The right side is worked the same as the left one , reversing all shaping . Work 188 rows of the lace pattern total .
Right shoulder shaping with short rows
In the next RS row work until 8 last sts , wrap the next st , turn and work WS row to the end . * In the next RS row work to the 7 sts before wrapped st , wrap the next st and turn . Work WS row to the end . Rep from * 2 more times . Work the entire RS alignment row , working on all wrapped stitches . Work one more WS row . Do not BO stitches , transfer all stitches to a non-working needle .
Sleeve ( make 2 )
With US3 ( 3,25 mm ) needles CO 65 ( 72 , 79 ) sts with the long tail method . Purl the first row ( WS ). Then work 2 first rows of the sleeve chart ( sleeve rib ). Rep 4 times (= 8 rows total ). Then continue with the lace pattern ( the 3d and the 4th rows of the sleeve chart ). Use the same US3 ( 3,25 mm ) needles for the first row of the lace pattern , and the first row of the lace pattern is increase row : selvage st , twisted yarn over , work the pattern until the selvage st , twisted yarn over , selvage st . Then change to US4 ( 3,5 mm ) needles . Repeat increase row 6 more times every 4th row . Now you have 79 ( 86 , 93 ) sts on needles . Include increased sts in the stitch pattern . Work 28 rows of the lace pattern total and end with WS row .
Sleeve cap shaping
Work the next RS row to the 9 last sts , wrap the next st and turn , work WS row to the 10 last sts , wrap the next st and turn . * In the next RS row work to the 7 sts before wrapped st , wrap the next st and turn , work WS row to the 7 sts before wrapped st , wrap the next st and turn . Rep from * 2 ( 3 , 3 ) more times . Work entire RS and WS alignment rows , working on all wrapped stitches . Do not bind off the stitches , transfer all stitches to a non-working needle . Leave a long yarn tail for sewing in sleeves .
Summary of improved fitting :
1 . The difference between the front ( 194 rows ) and the back ( 190 rows ) along the side line is 4 rows . Thus the back armhole is 4 rows longer than the front armhole . 2 . Shoulder line slope is higher on the back by 2 rows . Finished back neck is lifted by 6 rows or 2 cm . 3 . Height of horizontal bust darts is 6 ( 8 , 10 ) rows or 2 ( 2,5 , 3 ) cm . 4 . Hidden vertical bust darts are made with skipping 6 ( 7 , 6 ) yarn overs and equalize the initial difference of back and front necklines width .
All images , text , and illustrations © Aistė Butkevičienė , 2016 @ aisteb1973 8