Modern Tango World N° 10 (Athens, Greece) | Page 29

Then, there is the mu-
sic. On Mondays, an-
other small group of
milongueros
meet
where two big streets
cross at Neptuno and
Avenida de Italia. This
is the location of the
Casa del Tango. It is like
a scene from an old
movie where a young
poet, an old singer, a guitar virtuoso, and a bandoneonist
meet. Gardel posters and statues are everywhere. It is
a clean place, with very simple decorations and an old
CD player — not much. But it is enough. It compares
to the biggest music halls, provoking the same emotions.
In Cuba, tango is sung in such a way that when I arrived
there for the first time, I cried like a baby. I had gone
there with my tango shoes. After the concert, Enriquo
invited me to dance. The older people did not know that
I danced. But afterwards, everyone applauded. With tears
in my eyes, I was kissing their hands. Cubans are great
singers that really feel the music. There is so much musi-
cal talent in Cuba that one cannot grasp it all. Sometimes
you can buy a CD from a Havana performer with a small
donation in a box because the music is from the heart.
This feeling will stay with you forever.
In Havana, milongas start quite early, at about 9pm, with
tiny meetings of good friends. Perhaps, someone passing
thru, or a couple tourists who uncover the secret will
join in. Dances are on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays
at a gallery in old Havana, El Ojo del Ciclon, (the Eye of
the Cyclone).
There is a very small group of friends who are very
good dancers. Leo Lazaro, the owner, opens his place
to tango groups. It is a nice place where dancers can
practice, exchange new steps, and find new music. It is a
very small space; with dance between sculptures, paint-
ings, the old telephone booth, and, movie posters.
The doors are opened wide, and people on the side-
walk stop and peer in. Sometimes, the gallery makes
some sales. The truth about the milongas is that they
are spontaneous. Yailet Suarez, a Cuban tango cham-
pion, had just arrived from Italy. She granted us three
free lessons.. She and her fiancé, Agustin Garcia, have
big plans. Yailet and Agustin are renovating their home
slowly, transforming it into a Tango Academy in the El
Vedado neighborhood. Nearby are our secret casas
particulares, private homes outside the tourist buzz of
downtown. It is very convenient to dance there at night.
A strange gate opens to a fantastic elegant apartment
with 50’s décor.
In January, we scheduled two classes and milongas with
them. Noelia Hurtado and Carlitos Espinoza were
there, dancing and providing lessons. The lessons were
full of energy and self-confidence.. We learned a
lot, and were told repeatedly:
Walk like you mean it. Your walk will differ
from everyone else, but put everything into
your walk.
— Noelia Hurtado
Dancing tango in Havana without air condition-
ing can be challenging. The days can be very
hot. We often dance in places where doors and
windows are opened. The only air conditioning
might be an old antique fan.
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