also a pastry chef, Andrew Lewis, whose fried
milk is already acclaimed the best dessert
in the Southwest. A playful collection of
elements using milk, a cool white scoop
of iced milk sherbet, a square chocolate
mousse, and dark chocolate wafers.
Cole’s “genius” is to combine ingredients
in unusual ways, like raw tuna with Fuji Apple
or salmon with Asian pear. We loved a Madai
Carpaccio made of Japanese sea bream, a
pale farm-raised fish (cut into soft, thin slices
and dressed in olive oil), citrus, and myoga
ginger from Japan. The combination of
the olive oil against the raw fish enhanced
their properties. The fish made the oil more
rich and lush, while the oil made the fish
seem soft and pristine. His “cool tastings” are
brilliant with the freshest from the sea like
flounder, yellowtail, and salmon masterfully
accompanied by out of the ordinary
complimentary ingredients.
The sushi rolls generate the same
novelty. One roll with salmon came with
grilled asparagus, pear and cauliflower;
another combined tempura shrimp with
grapes. The rolls were well composed,
putting Uchi on similar footing as the former
Dallas sushi favorite, Tei Tei. We were taught
that you must invert the sushi so that the
protein and topping touch your taste buds
before the rice.
We could not keep up with all of the
tastings from the Tsukiji section which
started with a scallop flown in daily from
Japan. The Gyutoro a breathtaking dish
combining short rib with Asian pear and
“farm fresh greens,” was spectacular. The
short rib was cut into bite-size rectangles
and rippled with fat that melted in our
mouths. The Asian pear was “compressed,”
a technique that exhibited all kinds of
Hamachi Cure
Majuro Sashimi
ModernLifestyles.tv 41