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flavor from every cell of its being.
Some crispy toasted ciabatta bread,
still warm, provided a carrier for all
this. A Heath Robinson contraption
alongside (not shown for public
safety reasons) offered two olive oils
to drizzle on the bread, although it
wasn’t explained what the difference
was between them. Undoubtedly, the
high point was the Iberico ham with
its nutty flavors and complexity (not
just the one-dimensional saltiness
that is too prevalent with cured pork
charcuterie).
Watermelon Feta and Mint Salad
The Watermelon, Feta and Mint
Salad ($9) exhibited the expert grasp
of combinations that Bombaci’s food
showed at Nana. The watermelon
delivered sweetness, the feta saltiness
and the mint added complexity.
Simple to prepare, delicious on the
palate and visually impressive too.
We sampled three ‘main plates’,
albeit in mini-portions. Sea Scallops
($19.75) came with green olives,
celery and fregola. The latter in larger
diameter balls than you might usually
find, and they were lightly browned
from being sautéed when reheated.
This turned out to be as close as
we got to a pasta dish. Again, it was
simple in preparation but reflected
careful conception as the various
components melded into the whole.
Sea Scallops
Shawarma Half Chicken ($23)
raised the game. This intensely
seasoned and long-roasted chicken
was moist and flavorful beyond
what one would expect. The green
chile pesto (actually zhough, a spicy
Yemeni paste made of green chile,
cilantro, parsley, cardamom and
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D I N I N G
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olive oil) and tahini added accent
and interest. Put this down as one
of the biggest winners on the menu.
Chicken with attitude.
Shawarma Half Chicken
Lamb Shank cooked sous vide
and served with figs, almonds and
goat cheese ($24.25) was ideal for
the cold winter day.
Lamb Shank
The wine list is surprisingly good,
and larger than I would have expected.
There are about 100 selections, most
from the U.S. with a smattering from
popular categories outside (e.g.
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C U LT U R E
Champagne, Argentinean Malbec)
or one offs such as South African
Sauvignon Blanc. There are even five
(well chosen) wines from Texas. 18
wines are also available by the glass.
The craft beer list needs work. There
are only three selections and not
only is Molson-Coors Blue Moon
wrongly listed as a craft beer but none
of the offerings is local. Isn’t there a
place called Franconia Brewing Co. ju
Overall, Carso is a significant
addition to Plano/Frisco dining and
comes recommended.
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