TRAIL
I completed the full circuit in 1988 , and was curious to return after more than 30 years to see what changes had transpired . Over the last several decades , continuing construction of a road has shortened the trail , but the original trek would take between 20 and 25 days , depending on fitness levels and number of rest days . The road has not only drastically altered the area , notably the appearance and atmosphere of the villages , but there are now only two sections of between two and three days , where walking is the only option to continue . In many places , new trails and routes have been established , so that the road can be avoided , because sections of the road are occasionally blocked with fallen debris from the surrounding hillsides during the monsoon season , with many potholes , single track segments , and dramatic and steep gorges . Unfortunately , accidents are very frequent here .
October / November is the most popular hiking season in Nepal , and this is the busiest period on the Circuit , with tea ( guest ) houses booking up very quickly . Although the weather is generally warm during the day at this time of year , nighttime temperatures can drop below freezing , and severe storms can materialise . In October 2014 , a sudden blizzard killed 43 people on the trail between Manang and the Thorung La Pass . At one point , up to 350 trekkers were caught in the blizzard .
The Journey to Nepal
After long flights from Cape Town , Suzette and I arrived in Kathmandu Airport to a traditional Hindu ‘ namaste ’ greeting , a garland of flowers and a tilak on the forehead . Namaste is a sign of respect for the other person ’ s atma ( universal self ), as Hindus believe that God resides in each person , and should be
The narrow streets of Thamel in Kathmandu made running impossible
respected and greeted accordingly . The application of tilak symbolises a spiritual connection and awakening of consciousness , marking devotion , cultural adherence , and protection against negative energies . The garland of marigold flowers is used as a symbol of peace , love , purity , passion and beauty .
We were greeted in our Thamel hotel by representatives from Makalu Adventures . The neighbourhood of Thamel is Kathmandu ’ s primary ‘ traveller ’ s ghetto ,’ packed with budget hotels and guesthouses , cafés , bakeries , restaurants , souvenir shops , bookstores , travel agencies , pubs and clubs all catering to tourists . We had arrived a few days early to rest after our long flights , and to spend some time in the city before embarking on our adventure .
Suzette and Scott enjoying a bit of sightseeing
The other three runners – our son James ( coming from Durban ), Larry and Thom – all arrived over the next few days , and Suzette and James then spent a few days browsing the tourist shops in Thamel , and hiring equipment for the climb on Pisang Peak , while I visited several temples .
Kathmandu seems chaotic , as the traffic is incredibly noisy , with a continuous cacophony of car horns , and it is difficult to cross the roads due to infrequent traffic signals . Many of the pavements are broken , and there are potholes everywhere , while pathways are strewn with electric cables hanging from lamp-posts or other structures , and traders everywhere tout for business opportunities . It all looks very disorganised , and yet , in many respects , the city manages to function , while almost everyone seems utterly content . However , there was no possibility of a safe , half-decent training run in the city !
Suzette and Scott arrive in Kathmandu
The night prior to our departure to the start of the Annapurna Circuit , we had briefings on the itineraries for the marathon and climb . Our host then treated us to a traditional Nepali dinner and entertainment by dancers from different parts of the country . We had our first taste of rakshi , a local , very potent spirit alcohol . I daresay that several of the alleged sightings of the Yeti have been made after consuming too much rakshi ! Although we were slightly disappointed that there were not more participants in the running group , we realised that a smaller team has its advantages . We were going to be the trailblazers for what the organisers hope will become an annual , much larger event .
Starting the Circuit
The first day ’ s travel was by air-conditioned bus along the main highway towards Pokhara . Our local guides and crew were with us , and our 28-year-old trekking sirdar ( leader of the porters ) was named Ferous , from the Solu Khumbu ( Everest ) region of Nepal , who had been guiding events for Makalu Adventures for three years . Although he has a university degree in business studies , it is more lucrative being employed as a guide for a reputable trekking / guiding company .
Long stretches of the road were under construction , or being repaired , resulting in delays that lengthening our journey . It was also incredibly dusty . There were many cars and buses , and people on donkeys , or people walking by the side of the roads , several pushing carts , or people guiding cows . At times , it seemed as if the whole road was a large construction site ! By contrast , the many villages , farms and settlements on the surrounding hillsides seemed lush in all their shades of green after the recent monsoon .
Images : Scott McIvor , Sergey Ashmarin / Wikimedia
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