TRAIL RUNNING |
The expertly constructed Inca Trail remains usable hundreds of years later |
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Scott and the running group ready to start the Inca Trail Marathon
We had been asked to bring along some running attire that was no longer of use to us , to divide between our porters and support crew . Thankfully , I had had a generous flight baggage allowance and filled a complete kit bag with surplus T-shirts that had never been worn . Those were distributed mid-afternoon , and we were pleased that we could help them in a small way . We enjoyed hot cocoa tea , a super pastabased dinner , and prepared ourselves for the run the following morning . We would be carrying day trail packs that included some emergency warm clothes , food and drink , and there would be two food / aid stations set up on the route .
There would be few trekkers on the trail , as the Peruvian government had introduced a string of reforms to the trail since 2001 to reduce the number of hikers and to prevent damage caused by overcrowding . As a result , the number of trekkers is limited per day , and they must be accompanied by an accredited tour operator . Fees were increased , and the number of porters accompanying the groups was also limited . Efforts and funds were directed to improving the quality of the trail in places , as there are occasional landslides in the rainy season .
Scott ’ s pic of all the donated running kit brought by the runners
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On the Pilgrim ’ s Trail
The Inca Trail follows the original pilgrimage trail that leads into the religious capital , the legendary “ Lost City of the Incas ,” Machu Picchu . The trail is described as moderate to strenuous , over mountain terrain at altitudes ranging from 2600m to 4200m , and routed over the Sun-gate on Machu Picchu Mountain . The full classic trek usually takes anywhere from three to five days , depending on a tour operator ’ s itinerary , the fitness levels of the trekking group , and
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the starting point . Our intention was to run the trail in one day .
I slept very well the night before the run , and after an early morning breakfast , I was eager for the run to commence . It was cold in the early morning , but I kept myself warm enough , and I knew that as soon as the sun ’ s rays hit the trail , the temperature would increase substantially . After a brief walk to the start , we were on our way , about 20 runners in total , and I set off in the lead , following the trail that climbed gently at first , heading south along a side valley of the Rio Cusichacha .
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I soon tempered my enthusiasm , however , as there was a long way to go , and there was no point in setting off too quickly and not enjoying the later stages of the run . I knew we had several passes to cross , some up to more than 4000m , and taking one ’ s time in the initial stages would pay dividends later . However , the extra effort to stay warm encouraged me to run strongly in the initial stages , and I established a good rhythm .
The trail headed 6km to the hamlet of Huayllabamba , the last inhabited village on the Inca Trail , where we had magnificent views of snow-capped Veronica Mountain , which is 5750m high . Huayllabamba is situated near the fork of the Cusichacha and Llullucha Rivers , the latter which we crossed , and then we climbed steeply up a delightful gorge as we entered mossy woods . Additional ascent was through humid woodlands for about 3km , and the trail eventually emerged on to the high , bare mountainside of Llulluchupampa , where there was a campsite for trekkers .
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The Runner ’ s High
A path led up the left-hand side of the valley to the Dead Woman ’ s Pass at 4200m , the highest point on the trail . The route to the pass resembles a woman lying face-up , and navigates through different habitats , including a cloud forest . I arrived at the top of the pass in good spirits , frequently glancing round to see several runners on the trail behind me . I rested for a few minutes at the top , where I met some trekkers who were surprised when I told them that we were running the trail in one day !
Looking ahead , I saw another river far below , the Rio Pacamayo , as well as the ruins of Runturacay halfway up the hill above the river . It was an outstanding view . Up until the top of the Dead Woman ’ s Pass , our route had been mostly uphill , but now I could enjoy a considerable stretch of downhill running . It might have been steep in places , and it was a sustained descent , but the path was wide , and for someone with long legs , it was ideal for establishing a solid downward momentum . That was one of my favourite stretches of the whole run ! Occasionally I turned round to see our route behind me and in the distance , I observed a few of the other runners at the top of the Dead Woman ’ s Pass .
The ruins of Runturacay , halfway up one of the Dead Woman ’ s Pass climbs
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Images : Pajaro / Wikimedia , Colegota / Wikimedia , GX Ranger / Wikimedia , Steve Pastor / Wikimedia & courtesy Scott McIvor |