Yet, as you make your way through the courtyard to the entrance, the constructions’ sheer majesty unfurls like a blossoming rose. A glass floor that proffers a bird’s eye view of the freshly unearthed remains of the merchant city of Athens leads you into the building and onto the ground level. After walking up the raised floor past glass lined walls behind which stand familiar 2500 year old vases and sculptures (copies of which sells in every Greek Tourist shop on earth) its up the glass staircase and onto the first floor and into the towering Archaic gallery. I’d say that very little might prepare you for the sheer beauty of this gallery.Marble sculptures of the likes of Alexander The Great (336 BC) and Emperor Heraclius (641 AD) stand, alongside barbarian rulers and priests from the 2nd Century AD, on open plinths sparsely populating the area like clients of an unsuccessful nightclub while the glass cases that typically envelop such priceless works of art are conspicuous by their absence. Perfectly complementing the ancient statues, the space is defined by fat, modern dove grey, brushed concrete pillars and walls, geometric overhead light panels and stainless steel wall cabinets while massive windows allow luxurious lashings of natural light to flood the whole vicinity.
After that all that was left to do was to walk to the glorious top floor that, known as the Parthenon floor, houses what is left of said wonder’s sculptures after Lord Elgin, between 1801 and 1812, rapaciously chiselled off roughly half of them from the holy edifice and deposited them in the British Museum where they remain. In their place the museum has placed the rather unacceptable plaster casts – cheekily sold to them after self-determination in the 1840’s by the British Museum - next to their originals. Yet, seemingly intended to attract attention, said copies do not detract from the floors awe-inspiring magnificence as huge windows edged in steel look out onto the Parthenon while the works themselves speak volumes about the marvel that was Ancient Greece.Of course, The British Museum has long maintained that Greece had no proper place to put the ‘Elgin’ Marbles and that their museum is the right home but, let us hope then that the Acropolis Museum will re-address the situation and that the Marbles will be returned to this their rightful, and most astounding, home.
It’s almost impossible to over stress just how significant the newly built Acropolis Museum is to the Greek people. Suffice to say that, on approaching the £110 million structure my companion for the day, Tina Daskalantonaki, owner of the King George Hotel, was in tears.
That night, still reeling from the enormity, beauty and brilliance of the depository, all that was left was to dine on the roof of the sumptuous five star, King George Hotel and toast Athens, and its people, for coming up with the finest museum I have ever visited.
A weekend that had basically proffered the very best everything - truly memorable food, breath taking sights , incredible archaeology, the finest art works from the cradle of civilisation set against cutting edge architecture and cracking night life – it really was an eye opener that I could repeat tomorrow.
As for when to go, I avoided the blistering heat of mid summer and went in June but, apparently September till October is just as good with temperatures still reaching the twenties, room rates down and less people on the streets. Sounds like the perfect pre-winter getaway…..
FACTBOX:
Aegean Airlines offers 3 daily flights from London to Athens from just £69 one way, including all taxes and charges. For further information and bookings visit www.aegeanair.com <http://www.aegeanair.com/> or call 0871 200 0040.
Chris Sullivan stayed at both– the King George Palace Hotel. Double Rooms start from 300 Euros per night and the 2 Fashion Hotel – Double Rooms start from 130 Euros.
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