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Textiles are printed, distorted and embellished in different ways to feel modern. Polka dots, stripes and sheer- ness feature widely. A Chine Jacquard is woven and the threads are then shifted for graphic effect. A smudgy, dusky rose print on glassy, reflective satin, taffeta and voile feels simultaneously bygone and bold. There is a striking juxtaposition between softer, subtler lace, satin, voile and organza dresses and more structured taffeta, linen, moire and cotton ottomans pieces.
Colour and print treatments are inspired by famous club night posters and flier designs the nineties. Colours have an almost garish brightness reflecting the acid palette of the period and crowd. Sharp pinks, fluorescent blues, yellows and greens are decorated with inky black embroidery, beading and print. They add a vibrant up- date to the Victorian silhouettes, bringing an electric energy of celebration to the collection. Black tulle boaters with mosquito nets gathered over the face introduce a poetic element to the occasion. In places they could be for disguise or for glamour; to preserve anonymity or to attract attention.
Whether in repressed Victorian times or the hedonism of Nineties club land, dressing up or down to explore one’s individual identity was a bold act of self-expression. It defined the counterculture and inspired the cul- ture of the era. Fashions change, attitudes come and go, but the courage of dressing to become what you are remains something powerful and primal.