Millburn-Short Hills Magazine May 2019 | Page 38

restaurants specialty chicken, she is using the recipes and techniques she learned from her mom. or the other. Not to mention, Luck wanted to offer vegetarian plates and a veggie ramen, which some scoffed at. At Ani Ramen, the veggie ramen is vegan ($12), the chicken broth is made with chicken only ($12), and the pork broth, just pork ($12). The all-important noodles are made by Sun Noodle company in Carlstadt, which Luck and many other noodle aficionados say is the best in the biz. Ani Ramen serves seven noodle bowls. The most popular is the eponymous “Ani Ramen” with Berkshire pork bone broth, soy tare with chashu pork, kakuni, spinach, kikurage and scallions ($12). The small plates include smoky chili charred edamame that’s sea- soned with sea salt and bursting with flavor ($3) and can’t-miss bao buns that are pillow-soft and filled with tofu, pork or shrimp ($6). “Ramen is comfort food,” Luck said. “In Japan, there’s ramen, and we have it in Thailand, too.” Ani Ramen(s) Family ties SLURP. SIP. REPEAT. With four locations and a fifth (in Maplewood) on the way, Luck Sarabhayavanija ensures that you don’t have to go far to satisfy your ramen cravings. “The key is to take a little bite of everything,” Luck says, sitting in front of the mountain of food and digging into a fragrant pak mor, a Thai dumpling made with a minced chicken, peanut and sweet radish filling in a steamed rice flour batter. Here’s a closer look at the current restaurants created by this multi- generation family of restaurateurs. Kai Yang “The idea to open Kai Yang start- ed from my son,” Sheree says of her eye-catching Thai restaurant bursting with floral patterns and tapestries bearing mandalas. “I thought I should be semi-retired already, not starting from day-one again.” “I convinced her to roll the dice,” Luck says. At Kai Yang, Sheree and her partner in the kitchen, Peeraya Kaboonyom, are cooking traditional Thai dishes. And not just the quick stir-fries whipped up on busy week- days, but the slow-cooked delicacies saved for Sundays. The signature kai yang, for instance, is marinated with spices such as garlic, lemongrass, black peppercorn, palm sugar and coriander root. In making this 36 MAY 2019 MILLBURN & SHORT HILLS MAGAZINE Luck’s introduction to the culinary industry was by watching his mother work the front of house at Spice II and Boon Thai. Ani Ramen specializ- es in ramen (of course) and Japanese Izakaya-style small plates. Luck, who is not a chef, runs the business side of Ani Ramen and is the founding partner of Eleven Hospitality group. In the past, he has managed restaurants including Glowbal Bar & Grill in Vancouver and Beauty & Essex in Manhattan. He also helped open New York res- taurants Stanton Social, TAO, Lavo, Avenue and Marquee. Working in New York inspired him to open a ramen/small plates res- taurant across the river. He partnered with chef Julian Valencia, formerly of Ganso Ramen in Brooklyn, to open Ani Ramen. There were naysayers at first — purists who believed that the only way a restaurant could do ramen or small plates well was to focus on one As Ani Ramen takes off and expands, Sheree said she “couldn’t be more proud” of her son. But, did she think he would be a future restaura- teur when he was growing up? “Not at all,” she said. “But I knew he was good in the front of house and he loved food.” Luck wasn’t initially keen on working in the industry, seeing how challenging it was for his parents. But the restaurant biz was in his DNA. “When you grow up as a restau- rant brat you don’t realize how much you love it,” Luck said. “It’s so cliché, but I enjoy what I do every day.” ■ Ani Ramen, 427 Springfield Ave., Summit, (908) 679-8157; 401 Bloomfield Ave., Montclair, (973) 744-3960; 218 Newark Ave., Jersey City, (201) 408-9811; Harborside Atrium, Jersey City, aniramen.com; Kai Yang, 345 Bloomfield Ave., Montclair; (973) 509-2110, kaiyangnj.com.