MG Motoring 2019 Volume 59 Issue 10 | Page 36

MG Car Club of South Australia well- they were cracked—not a nice bloody thought—hey!!. And—lets look at the front disks and brake pads as well. Pads were ok, but when I took the calipers apart, found that the piston seals were a bit worse for wear, and there was a fair bit of muck inside the caliper body,-- ordered new seals, cleaned out the muck, all good now— just like new again—( especially after the whole front end suspension compo- nents got a good pressure wash down, clean and repaint ). As the steering rack and pinion system also had to come out, I took that apart, cleaned, regreased and repainted it as well. Tie rod ends—replaced—old ones were rusty inside, could hardly move the left hand one. I must say that I was surprised to find that the king pins and bushes were in good condition when I checked them – no slop or looseness in any direction—I have a feeling that they may have been replaced in the not too past tense.. I don’t know whether any of you have had shuddering and vibration problems with you front ends when driving over a certain speed. I had, and I think that I found the problem. Because they were glazed up I decided that I was going to remachine the front rotors while they were off the car, When I put them in the lathe to machine the surfaces, I saw that the castings were not at all concen- tric to the factory machined surfaces. This put the rotors out of balance, so after I remachined the braking faces, I also machined some material off of the casting . After the car was eventually put back on the road again, I found that there was no more vibration evident— much better….Just a note—when com- ponents are first machined in the fac- tory, they must be located, clamped, positioned as close as possible to their true centers of gravity, otherwise they will always be out of balance. fan on all the time, and the gearbox whines when in first and second gear. I put this down to the first and second gears being straight cut perhaps, which would cause the whining ( whirring ) noise.( Someone could fill me in on that.) .I reckon I,m right though, because this cars got so much grunt, that it could drag a Ferrari off at fifty paces……It’s a red MGB—Seee…(straight cut gears are stronger but noisier, and helical or angle cut gears are a little weaker, but quieter.) But—overall, I think that the gearbox is ok. I like the rigidness of the gear stick when I change gears. It clunks into place as if there is nowhere else for it to go, except back into first if you don’t watch what you are doing. I bet a lot of the girls find the same problem—and don’t be filthy about this either!!!..... I eventually bought a front and back sus- pension overhaul kit, ( rubbers and bushes etc ) and replaced the lot. Suffice to say, the car rides very well now, no clunking and banging, drives in a straight line ( even when you turn corners—na-- just joking… ), and is nice and quiet. While all of this was happening, I also cleaned up, washed down all of the un- derbody of the car and repainted it all black, blew the rusty flakes out of the inside of the chassis rails and sprayed RP7 in them, until it dripped out.( all over my shed floor ). I must say that I spent a lot of time cleaning the dripped paint off of my body parts. I used a paint brush, that tend to drip if you,r not careful--- Hey—I wasn’t careful, was I. Took the drive shaft out, cleaned the rust out of the uni. bearings, regreased, repainted it. As we all know, when you start some- thing, it always turns out that you find something else to fix, so, when I re- moved the front cross member, together with all the suspension bits hanging off it, to replace the rubbers etc,I found that the brake hoses needed replacing as 34