FORSAKEN DREAMS - MINUTES FROM DEATH BY DR MARTIN PRITCHARD-HOWARTH
“ We shall not bring back a single bit of gold or silver , not a gem or any coal or iron . We shall not find a single foot of earth that can be planted with crops to raise food . It ’ s no use . So , if you cannot understand that there is something in man which responds to the challenge of this mountain and goes out to meet it , that the struggle is the struggle of life itself upwards and forever upward , then you won ’ t see why we go .” - George Leigh Mallory , 1922
March 29th 2022 , 4 hard years of mountain preparation , honing our fitness team building and climbing skills . Never had I felt fitter or more prepared for anything in my life , including some significant previous challenges both personally and with Tri4Life . We boarded the plane to Kathmandu filled with excitement , anticipation and healthy doses of respect and trepidation . The magnetism of Everest occupied every waking minute .
Fast forward 5 weeks . An incredible trek from Lukla , had brought us ever closer to our expedition target . I had coped well with the exertions and altitude to date . The acclimatisation ascent of Lobuche ( 6119m ) filled me with the confidence required to believe that summiting the highest mountain on Earth was achievable . The subsequent trek into Base Camp and the first three rotations up and through the Khumbu Icefall to Camps One and Two felt similarly ‘ comfortably uncomfortable ’ and excitement was mounting .
Some doubts started to creep into the positive mindset I had thus far maintained on the second trip to Camp 2 . Some stabbing twinges in my chest and difficulty breathing ( beyond what we had all been suffering ) began to sow the seeds of concern . I am a Doctor and had a long list of potential diagnoses floating around an admittedly sometimes hypochondriacal brain ! However , all of us were breathless , coughing and many had aches and pains from the heavy packs and rope hauling that was necessary on a daily basis so I consoled myself with some paracetamol and a strict talking to .
The following day as we left camp 2 to tackle the Lhotse Face my legs felt leaden , consciousness clouded and not even the oxygen we had started using was making a discernible difference . Somehow I made it up to Camp 3 , a spectacular camp on a ledge with jaw dropping views of the Valley below . To our right lay the famed yellow band , behind us the peak of Lhotse itself . The summit of Everest was not yet visible but its presence was felt by all .
Descending back to Camp 2 and then to base Camp to prepare for the summit push my breathlessness failed to improve . Surely I should be acclimatised now ? I had several stumbles and on an abseil down the Khumbu injured my knee ( subsequently diagnosed medial collateral ligament tear ). The wretchedness we were all feeling was exacerbated by suppressed appetites and a loss of 13kg during the trip .
Somehow Base Camp was reached , a chance to recuperate for a few days , gather strength and wait for the weather window we needed to summit . I had not voiced my doubts but my state of health was clearly visible to the team , particularly on a rest day trip to Gorak Shep when I was struggling to walk up slopes I ’ d skipped up a couple of weeks ago . Still I held onto a meagre hope that things would improve but for the first time allowed myself to contemplate failure .
That evening , May 4th we had our usual meal and watched the movie Reservoir Dogs . Throughout the film I was feeling increasingly uncomfortable . Eventually we turned in and I remember wondering whether Mr Pink would get away with the diamonds . Suddenly I was crippled by a sharp searing pain across my chest , particularly on the right . I was struggling for breath and genuinely believed I was about to die staring at the photos of my family and friends that I had taped to the tent walls . I knew then that I had suffered a Pulmonary Embolism ( a lung clot ). I took some aspirin but could do little else . There was little to be gained by waking the rest of the team as options were limited and no helicopters would be flying at that time . It was a very long night , doubled up over my camp bed , gasping for what little air there was available and trying to alter position to gain some comfort . I had some new found sympathy for Prometheus having an eagle peck at his liver every day . At least I had two lungs !
Eventually morning came . I mentioned to Stu , our expedition leader , that I ’ d had some pains overnight and best have some medical attention . Liam and Phil half carried me to the medical tent where I had an ultrasound of my chest , oxygen saturations monitored , and evacuation recommended . The emergency helicopter was rapidly ordered , packing of gear hurriedly arranged and before I knew it the transport had arrived . No words were needed as we said our farewells . A team that had endured many challenges and hardships together was being broken , and my dream shattered . I still held onto a forlorn hope that I ’ d be given the all clear and return on the next chopper but knew that I was just kidding myself . Hugs at the landing pad as the rotors idled above our heads I looked into the eyes of the team and knew
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