Mersey Life July 2022 | Page 29

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and stuck on the list just because of their name . So , we find on the list , one outstanding vintage of wines like : Chateau Lafite- Rothschild 1995 ; Chateau Latour 1990 ; Penfolds Grange 1997 ; Henschke ’ s Hill of Grace 2004 ; Armand Rousseau ’ s Clos Des Ruchottes 1995 .
• Whilst there are some 750 wines to buy , by the bottle , there are also a handful of wines to buy by the glass . The list is relatively small – but classy . I had a glass of the white Chateau Musar ahead of dinner . You will also find other outstanding wines , like one of Felton Road ’ s classy pinot noirs , on the ‘ by the glass ’ list . Such wines , of such quality and standing , are seldom found on a ‘ by the glass ’ wine list in my experience .
In addition to wine by the glass , or the purchase of a whole bottle from the list , you also have the option of choosing between two different wine flights to pair with your tasting menu . Each involves eight different wines ( one to match with each of the eight courses on the tasting menu ). One is priced at £ 125 , the other at £ 250 . Before you decide to go for one , ask what is involved with each flight . I went for the £ 125 flight , not just because it was cheaper , but because there were some interesting wines on it that I fancied trying . I should also add that my eight wines were variously served by three or four different members of the team at the restaurant ………. but every one of them knew what they were pouring into my glass , inside out . Impressive . So , here goes :
Moric Ft Villa Tolnay ‘ Riesling / Furmint ’ ( 2019 ) – from Hungary comes this wine made from a blend of riesling and furmint grapes . A hint of sweetness , some honeysuckle , some herbal notes and green apple . Refreshing and with great acidity . Almost zingy on the palate . This was paired with ‘ Paris Market Carrots , doddington , chrysanthemum and sea buckthorn ’.
Nicolas Joly ‘ Les Vieux Clos Savennieres ’ ( 2018 ) – from the fabled Savennieres commune , in the Loire Valley , comes this golden yellow chenin blanc . A complex wine with plenty of ripe fruit , a touch of spice and floral notes . Lovely minerality . This was paired with ‘ Turnip and Crab , anise hyssop and sunflower seeds .
Cantine Del Notaio ‘ Il Siglio ’ Aglaianico del Vulture ( 2014 ) – as a self-confessed fan of aglianico , I had to have a go at this . Made from super ripe grapes , you get a wine with lovely vibrant fruit ( think sweet cherries and blackberries ). Whilst almost jammy , this wine retains a lovely freshness and lightness . It was paired with ‘ Leconfield Sussex Beef , barbequed beetroot , mustard and shallot ’.
Alheit Vineyards ‘ Hemelrand Vine Garden ’ ( 2018 ) – from one of South Africa ’ s newer wine producers , by a short head , this was probably my favourite wine from the flight . This white blend was wonderfully fresh , aromatic and beautifully balanced . Plenty of citrus , fruit and floral notes . It was paired with ‘ Isle of Mull Scallop , fermented green tomato , Larkhill asparagus and grains . Rathfinny Blanc de Noirs ( 2017 ) – this sparkling wine comes from Sussex in England . The polar opposite to , perhaps , the better-known Blanc de Blancs champagnes and sparkling wines we often come across ( made solely from the white skinned chardonnay grape alone ). This Blanc de Noirs is made from the two red skinned grapes that are traditionally used with the chardonnay grape in the making of champagne and other sparkling wines ( pinot noir and pinot meunier ). This was a refined sparkling wine with apple , cherry and floral notes . This lovely wine was paired with ‘ Turbot cooked on the bone , salsify , mussel and roe sauce ’.
Lopez de Heredia ‘ Vina Tondonia ’ ( 2006 ) – a classic from Rioja , made from 70 % tempranillo , 20 % garnacho , 5 % graciano and 5 % mazuelo . Sweet strawberries and vanilla to the fore . Bright , vibrant and complex . This was paired with ‘ Millbeck Farm Herdwick Lamb , lettuce , anchovy and artichoke ragout , ramson and curd ’.
Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc Beerenauslese ( 2020 ) – from Austria comes this lovely , sweet , but not overpowering or sickly , wine . Fresh with ripe fruit ( perhaps peach and apricot ) and some honey . Very drinkable and paired beautifully with ‘ Lemken Farm Strawberries , sweet cicely and ragstone ’.
Marco Porello Birbet ( NV ) – finally , from Piedmont in Italy , came perhaps the most surprising wine of the night . This was a wonderfully light , refreshing , red sparkling wine . Floral and fruity ( think raspberries and blackcurrants ). Very low in alcohol and with great acidity , this paired wonderfully with ‘ Merchant Cherries , muscovado , woodruff and oxalis ’.
So … the conclusion ! It is an amazing wine list . It is what you would expect in every regard , and more , for a 2 Michelin starred restaurant – and dare one say also for a 3 Michelin starred restaurant . Did it send me into ‘ raptures ? I guess that all hinges on your definition of ‘ raptures ’. One dictionary definition is that a rapture is something that sends you into a state of lofty emotion or ecstasy . Another definition is , apparently , something that transports you from one place to another , especially to heaven , by supernatural means ! Whatever …… the Michelin Guide is , again , pretty much spot on !
It has been famously said : “ Givers of great dinners know few enemies ”. One suspects there are in fact no enemies , out there , when it comes to Moor Hall . In life , a s the saying goes , you get what you pay for when it comes to luxury . You get what you pay for here . It is worth every penny . Hats off . merseylife . com 29