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BARNACLE by Si Hall & Arthur Gold
The intimate new brasserie helmed by The Art School ’ s Paul Askew , Bone and Block ’ s Harry Marquart and local kitchen stars Kieran Gill and Jake Lewis , Barnacle tells the story of Liverpool ’ s food and drink provenance .
Set in the beautiful mezzanine at Duke Street Market , the restaurant features modern dishes drawn from the locality ’ s producers , farmers and artisans with ingredients linked to the port ’ s bustling trade over the decades . The bar features over 30 different gins with a focus on rums , ports and cognacs , a wondrous wine list and brilliant locally brewed beers .
Our expectations were extremely high for Barnacle and the actual experience completely knocked it out of the park . Massively impressed with the skillfully crafted thoughtfull dishes , presented and delivered by what you would probably ( especially in this business ) call a rare ' dream team '.
11 out of 5 . Well done . Booking advised on eat @ barnacleliverpool . co . uk
Upon meeting our hugely charismatic hosts Marika and bartender extraordinaire Jack , you get the idea that an interview with Paul and Harry would resemble more a casting , to find only the brightest to deliver their culinary theatre .
Barnacle opened in early December and we ’ ve been excited to see what creations a collision of two of Liverpool ’ s top creative minds would spawn . We could wait no longer .
Bar Snacks These were really substantial , you could easily have a few of these and be done , no problem . We had their own marinade Gordal Olives with some Abyss Stout Soda Bread , Roast Celeriac Wirral Raw Milk Butter ( very clever ) and the showstopping Southport Potted Shrimp , Sea Lettuce on a Potato Cakes .
Starters A vegetarian option , we had the winter squash from Peter Jones ( based in the Wirral ) with aerated Mrs Kirkham ’ s cheese ( from Preston ) served on a bed of homemade granola .
And the pork belly from Callum Edge , accompanied by black pudding made by the Butcher ’ s Wife ; finished with salt baked celeriac and Wirral Cox apples .
Mains We went for the vegan Hispi cabbage from Ormskirk stuffed with mushroom ragu served with bulgar wheat .
Ward ' s Pan fried Hake with turnips cooked 3 ways , finished with swiss chard , mussels and the best beurre blanc you have ever had .
To finish the dinner on a sweet note we have chef ’ s Kieran ’ s signature dessert ... Carrot cake . This was packed full of spices , nuts and serious flavour . Gluten free and vegan .
We also recommend going for beautiful ‘ 1000 layers ’. 2 layers of 80 % chocolate ganache in between puff pastry handmade by Butterhollics in Speke and finished in house ; topped with chestnut mousse , finished with freshly grated chestnut , spiced rum pouched pear pieces and rum jelly .
COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH - " LOST AT SEA ' by Barnacle ' s Jack Mellor
During my interview for the position at Barnacle , I was tasked to create a cocktail that fits the brief of the restaurant . Sourcing local produce as well celebrating the many imports of the region .
I ’ d met the lads from Liverpool Zest in my previous job and was a big fan of their Limoncello , which they started making in Toxteth during the lockdown .
With that in mind I decided to do a twist on the Ramos Gin Fizz , a classic which is rarely seen on menus due to it ’ s technical difficulty and labour heavy production .
The local limoncello is paired with William Fox Vanilla syrup , Ginsmiths of Liverpool Gin , Tea bitters , egg white , cream and tonic .
There ’ s a bit of theatre involved as we finish the drink at the table where we add the tonic that creates a soufflé effect as the light , fluffy head ascends from the glass and you ’ re left with what resemblance an aerated lemon cheesecake in both flavour and aesthetic .
Quickly becoming a Barnacle staple the reaction from our guests has been amazing , easily our best selling cocktail which we ’ ll be keeping on the menu for the foreseeable .
30 34 seftonlife merseylife . com .