MW L
BARNACLE by Si Hall & Nicky Rigby Smith
The intimate brasserie helmed by The Art School ’ s Paul Askew , Bone and Block ’ s Harry Marquart , Barnacle tells the story of Liverpool ’ s food and drink provenance .
Set in the beautiful mezzanine at Duke Street Market , the restaurant features modern dishes drawn from the locality ’ s producers , farmers and artisans with ingredients linked to the port ’ s bustling trade over the decades . The bar features over 30 different gins with a focus on rums , ports and cognacs , a wondrous wine list and brilliant locally brewed beers .
Upon meeting our hugely charismatic host Bethany McCourt and bartender extraordinaire Dan Cole , you get the idea that an interview with Paul and Harry would resemble more a casting , to find only the brightest to deliver their culinary theatre . The talented kitchen brigade tonight were Jake , Saul and Jamie .
On arrival , Dan created us a special cocktail - ' Sour Bill ' made with Pomelo gin from The Art Schools own gin collection . It was bright , crisp , refreshing , with a silky frothy top , a nice touch to start our culinary experience .
Bar Snacks : These were really substantial , you could easily have a few of these and be done , no problem . We had Saltmarsh Lamb croquette , served with Salsa Verde - crispy on the outside and soft inside , the croquette flavours and textures were immense . The Chips and Cheese snack - was Jerusalem artichoke smothered in Parmesan - worked brilliantly . Delicious !
Amuse Bouche : Soda bread made with Neptunes Abyss Stout and caramelised shallot and sage butter . The stout had a unique flavour - we ' d love the recipe for this - yum !
Starters : New Liverpool chowder , smoked haddock , cockles , samphire , dill . This dish was beautifully presented and delicate . The samphire and dill complimenting the haddock and cockles . It was paired with Albariño known as a fishermans wine . It has jasmine and grassy aromas on the nose and grapefruit and white peach on the palette .
Whitchurch chicken , yuzu , leek , miso and chilli . Wow ! The flavours really worked together , very tasty with a slight kick ! This was paired with Viognier which is grown in Limari valley , Chile . The aromas of the wine stand up against the bold Asian flavours of the chicken dish .
Mains : Cumbrian ox cheek , mash , cavolo nero & seven seas of Rye jus . The cheek was perfectly cooked , soft , tender and fell apart as soon as your fork touched it . The jus was rich but not heavy . This was a showstopper ! Paired with IMuri , a well balanced red with flavours that carry through but do not overpower the flavours of the ox cheek .
Dessert : Pavlova , winter berries , Mortons double cream . Paired with Jarno Bianco dessert wine , a structured wine with a beautiful smooth and silky feeling on the palette .
Our expectations were extremely high for Barnacle and the actual experience completely knocked it out of the park . Massively impressed with the skilfully crafted thoughtful dishes , presented and delivered by what you would probably ( especially in this business ) call a rare ' dream team '. It is also extremely good value , with two courses starting at £ 37 .
Excellent . Top marks . Well done . Booking is advised .
Barnacle Liverpool The Mezzanine , Duke Street Market , 46 Duke St , Liverpool L1 5AS
0151 245 5113
36 merseylife . com