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Arbor
Bournemouth’s newest two AA rosette restaurant specialises in
ethical, sustainable food. Emma Caulton samples its new summer menu
he beautiful Green House hotel is so-called as it has
sustainability at its core. It is recognised as one of the
top ‘eco-hotels’ in the UK, if not the world. But this
does not mean it stints on luxury. It is also home to Arbor
restaurant; we went to taste the new summer menu on the
Friday evening it was launched.
T
The Style
Understated. The Green House is a vanilla ice cream
coloured Grade II Victorian villa, its lawns dotted with
palm trees, just a stroll from Bournemouth’s beaches.
Arbor, open to non-residents, is designed
on the theme of a woodland glade. Arbor
being Latin for tree, the restaurant’s name
was chosen to reflect its roots, its strong
eco attitudes and love of the countryside.
The theme extends to the decor: a
sculptured oak tree flecked with fibre
optic lights takes centre stage, table lamp
stands mimic twisted branches, and blinds
with a leaf design complete the look.
The Inspiration
The Green House and Arbor Restaurant
take sustainability seriously. Every purchase
is carefully considered, from the producers
they source ingredients from, to the low
energy lighting they use, and even the
furniture made from reclaimed timber, and
the honey bee hives on the roof.
“Every
purchase
is carefully
considered
from the
produce
to the bee
hives on
the roof”
The Drinks
The Food
The menu reflects seasonality and is adapted according
to market availability. Head Chef Andy Hilton has been
trying out adventurous food combinations since childhood.
The Green House
4 Grove Road
Bournemouth
BH1 3AX
www.thegreenhousehotel.co.uk
www.arbor-restaurant.co.uk
01202 498900
Arbor is open
His youthful passion for cooking has developed into a full
blown foodie obsession, resulting in him joining The Green
House as sous chef four years ago and becoming head chef
the following year. Since then, he’s racked up numerous
accolades including Gold in the Dorset Tourism Eating
Out Award in 2014.
We tasted the new summer menu, which is full of dishes
to excite and inspire the palate. Choosing was hard, but
having tried all the dishes themselves, the attentive staff
helped us. I couldn’t resist bronzed, succulent Lyme Bay
scallops served with a soft mound of Stornoway black
pudding and roast cauliflower – all with a
tang of sea breeze. My chap was tempted by
South Coast crab raviolo with girolle
mushrooms, broad beans and fresh podded
peas tasting sweet and green. His verdict –
“So good I want to lick the plate”.
For mains I picked from the blackboard
specials – perfectly executed lemon sole
with tangy beurre noisette. The chap had
courgette flower stuffed with Rosary goat’s
cheese with spinach tagliatelle – it was
piquant and delicious, but could have been
a tad more generous. Desserts were gooey
dark chocolate and salted caramel fondant,
a pudding version of a Snickers, for him,
and a summery dessert of homemade
marzipan and boozy peaches for me.
The wine list is an interesting collection and complements
the kitchen by focusing on local and organic, biodynamic
wines such as English Oak Chinkapin Rose, a fizz that’s
transported to The Green House by electric car from a
vineyard near Poole. There’s also a careful choice of wellpriced wines by the glass. We picked an aromatic Tulbagh
Winery Chenin Blanc 2013: a mouthful of pear drops in
appropriately stylish pear drop-shaped glasses, and a lovely,
fun summer wine. Water is presented in cylindrical bottles,
a nice touch typical of the restaurant’s attention to detail.
The Vibe
An oasis of calm. We were given a table for two in the bay
window. The dress was smart casual, the ambience relaxed,
and the service was welcoming and friendly.
All day 10am-10pm, serving pastries, lunch, afternoon tea
and dinner
Starters £4.50-£10.50
Mains £13.50-£26
Menu’s Verdict
A boutique hotel with admirable green credentials and a
restaurant of quiet glamour. The service is warm and the
menu is wow, comprising imaginative seasonal cooking
with top notch ingredients from local artisan produc