On the Menu
eat out
UPPER DECK BAR
AND RESTAURANT No cruise booking necessary , this vessel has a hold full of sunsets , fizz and fine food . Alison Smith sets sail .
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Jostling for attention in the car park of The Christchurch Harbour Hotel , a fleet of Bentleys , Porsches and Range Rovers give the first indication that the experience ahead is a cut above the norm . From the moment we step into the lobby , the feeling is of elegance , luxury and modernity .
On arrival in the dining room Maître d ’ Rafael , an exuberant and benevolent character , introduces himself ; he is to play a key part in the evening ahead . We ’ re shown past the dazzling white bar and dining room of greys , lilac and cream , all plush furnishings and tasteful patterns , take our seats on the terrace and breathe in the quite extraordinary view . On this bright May evening , the sun just beginning to sink towards the horizon line , subtle hues of pink
and aquamarine stain the azure . Water birds bob on the receding tide , while a lone figure in waders digs for lugworms . There can be fewer better spots to while a day away . Blankets and heaters take the edge off the rapidly cooling evening air . There ’ s an outside bar , chillout house music and a fresh young vibe – but for the pastel beach huts we could be in Southern Spain .
Starters
With Rafael ’ s encouragement we order a mocktail and “ Lavalicious ”, a not-to-be sniffed at concoction of strawberries , raspberries , champagne and vodka , and appetisers of chicken popcorn and truffle arancini . A rich mayo shimmering with pungent white truffle oil and speckled with shavings of luxurious black truffle accompanies the crisp spheres of rice . Onto the starters and Rafael rushes to the kitchen to approve an augmented version
On the Menu
"… We take our seats on the terrace and breathe in the quite extraordinary view …"
of Chef Patron Alex Aitken ’ s classic twice-baked cheese soufflé – a lobster version from the lunchtime specials . Decadently rich and utterly moreish , we are torn between a desperation to finish every last delicious mouthful and a need to stop for fear of losing ourselves in a pit of gluttony . A dish of asparagus with dill-cured salmon and poached hens ’ egg is executed to perfection .
Mains
For our main course we sidestep the grill menu despite the allure of whole lobster or châteaubriand with gratin dauphinoise , “ posh fries ” and any number of extravagant combinations , opting instead for the seafood linguine and a dish of salmon with stem ginger . Topped with slivers of red chilli and sweet spicy ginger , the salmon is moist , the crushed potatoes generously seasoned . It ’ s a well-rounded , interesting dish with surprising peaks of flavour from the ginger and chilli . The wonderful Rafael diligently matches our wine to our food . His passion for the subject is clear and his choices inspired – a South Australian chardonnay with high acidity , creamy with a long finish – the perfect partner to the buttery smoked salmon and tangy vintage cheese and an old vine reserve South African chenin blanc with orange zest in the nose and apricot on the finish .
Dessert
True to Aitken ’ s style , the dessert selection is classically inspired and crowd pleasing ; a vanilla panna cotta , sticky toffee pudding and our preferences , tiramisu and lemon meringue cheesecake . An elegant plate , the cheesecake takes a timehonoured standard and lends it some 21st century panache . Creamy baked cheesecake is topped with rich citrus curd , dainty meringues and slivers of crystallised lemon zest , grains of sugar crunching on the tooth , the accompanying sorbet super sharp and perfectly refreshing , a lightning bolt to the palate .
Menu ’ s Verdict
The hotel is picking up awards and commendations from all directions – it ’ s easy to see why . The venue is as special as the cars out front , albeit with a price tag that ’ s a little less intimidating .
Light bites : from £ 2.50 , Starters : £ 5.95- £ 12.95 , Mains : from £ 14 , Desserts : £ 5.95- £ 7.50
The Christchurch Harbour Hotel & Spa , 95 Mudeford , Christchurch , Dorset , BH23 3NT .
Tel : 01202 483434 www . harbourhotels . co . uk / hotels / christchurch / www . menu-dorset . co . uk