MENU dorset issue 23 MENU23.dorset pdf issue 23.new | Page 58

t u o t a e THE STOUR INN Over 400 years old, this pub is under new ownership with plans to put it on the map. Liz Connolly sees if the home cooked, locally sourced food will help it stand out D on’t judge a book by its cover. Or in this case a pub. At first glance The Stour Inn in Blandford St Mary is quietly unassuming; a listed building set between quaint cottages, just a hop, skip and a jump from the grounds of Bryanston School. But step past the facade and you soon enter an unexpected world of ghosts, gin and good times, with open fires, teal- painted rooms and quirky wall decorations to boot. We were seated in the restaurant on a drizzly Sunday lunchtime. Tables were furnished with stylish glassware and fabric napkins, accented with white candles in Bombay Sapphire Gin bottles. Nearby, there was an eclectic mix of twinkly lights, Laurel and Hardy images and motorbike memorabilia – immediately setting the tone of this relaxed establishment. The drinks and starters 58 Woodhouse, but on this occasion, we opted for a refreshingly light French Sauvignon Blanc. Attractive dishes featured on the starter menu – popcorn olives, cockles, home-smoked salmon and a vegetarian scotch egg made with potato and Manchego to name a few. My companion opted for a modern classic – locally-caught Portland scallops (roe on). Four beautifully seared scallops arrived delicately balanced on generous circles of black pudding and pea and mint puree. Delicious. I chose homemade scotch egg (meat version) which gave a satisfying crunch as I cut through the golden breadcrumbs to reveal a hard-boiled egg and sausage meat mixed with black pudding. A winning combination, enhanced with a mixed leaf salad and tasty chutney. "…you have all the ingredients of a cracking party and food to nourish the soul" A quick chat with landlady and head chef Erika Watt, who appeared in the popular Four in a Bed television series with a previous business, revealed she’s "bringing the pub to life" by revamping the interior, serving freshly cooked dishes and hosting a variety of events, including jazz, beer-tasting and psychic nights (resident ghoul included). But a real draw for punters is the garden, home to a smokery, barbecue and vegetable plot. Throw in some of Erika’s homemade chutneys and a dazzling display of gins from around the world – and you have all the ingredients of a cracking party and food to nourish the soul. At the bar, there’s a fine selection of brews from Hall & What's on the menu The mains The main menu was equally appealing. Torn between shellfish bouillabaisse with fresh bread; tagliatelle with capers, crème fraiche and roasted tomatoes; gut-busting homemade burgers; and steak with garlic butter, I eventually settled on a hearty liver and bacon dish. It came with a portion of creamy horseradish mash with buttery undertones, onion gravy and watercress garnish. A comforting dish on this cold day. My companion plumped for topside of roast beef, resulting in big thumbs up for its quality and tenderness. An impressively- sized Yorkshire pudding and vegetables accompanied the dish, including a surprising wedge of roasted beetroot. There was mango cheesecake, coffee cream torte, chocolate brownies and more on the pudding menu. Good old apple crumble and custard pipped everything to the post for me. A traditional crumb concealed a smooth apple base which was delightfully sweet and tart. My companion indulged in a raspberry and white chocolate roulade served with raspberries and coulis. Every spoonful was met with enthusiasm. But if savoury nibbles are your preference, the pub has an impressive cheeseboard - Stinking Bishop, Wild Garlic Yarg, Cornish Blue and vintage cheddar with a side of crackers, celery, grapes, homemade chutney and a tipple of port. Menu’s verdict This family-friendly pub's quirky approach will put it firmly on the map. With the full backing of local people and a great team running the place, it is set to be a true feather in the cap for Hall & Woodhouse. Starters £4.50 to £7 Mains £9.50 to £13.50 (including specials). Smaller portions can be made for children. Puddings £4.95 Cheeseboard from £9.50 The Stour Inn 5 Dorchester Hill, Blandford St Mary, Blandford Forum DT11 9LH stour-inn.co.uk 01258 451276 www.menu-dorset.co.uk