MENU dorset issue 22 MENU22..dorset pdf issue 22. | Page 60

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THE SHIP INN
Liz Connolly gets on board with this friendly family pub that has a
new chef’s hand on the tiller
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xpectations were high on discovering I was to visit
the Ship Inn in Wool, its name already hinting at an
intriguing history of swashbuckling adventures on the
high seas.
A quick Google search revealed all – smugglers were rife in
these parts and often drawn from the local farming community
who saw it as an attractive sideline.
On arrival at this roadside pub, I was struck by the handsome
black and white exterior bedecked with gleaming copper
lanterns and traditional casement windows. It was easy to
imagine this part-listed building welcoming punters in from
the cold after a long day of hard graft.
And the charm didn’t end there. Stepping
past the plants flanking the main entrance, I
was soon greeted with open fires, low ceilings
and panelled walls, accented with fascinating
antiquities and black and white photographs of
a bygone era. In particular, a huge portrait of
The Ship with a thatched roof circa 1920.
The best of Hall & Woodhouse was on offer
at the bar, including a seasonal ale, Pickled
Partridge, and Owlers IPA (another nod to the
pub’s smuggling past).
Seated in a sunny window spot next to a
huge model of a ship, we perused the menus.
My companion was impressed with the ‘fine
wine list’ and plumped for a glass of South
African Chenin Blanc which had a floral
aroma, dry on the palate with a long finish.
In contrast, I chose the Spanish house white
– Borsao Macabeo – a fruity, dry wine with
nutty characters.
Our attentive waitress informed me the captain of this ship
was Dorset-born Sam Percival, also head chef.
Sam originally trained in London’s iconic Langan’s Brasserie.
More recently, he successfully ran The Drax in Bere Regis
before jumping ship in September 2017. His motto is ‘simple
food, cooked well’, using only the best of locally-sourced
ingredients, I was keen to see the culinary delights Sam would
conjure up.
Starters and Drinks
For starters, my companion had a homemade chicken liver pate.
It arrived with a large garnish, delicate slices of Melba toast,
and a sticky red onion chutney, which really lifted the strong,
smooth texture of the pâté. I opted for a comforting appetiser
from the specials board - breaded brie. Two
indulgent wedges of crispy golden crumb sat
atop roasted cherry tomatoes and red onion,
dressed in balsamic vinegar. The sweet burst
of flavours in this dish left me wanting more.
"His motto
is ‘simple
food, cooked
well’, using
only the
best of
locally-
sourced
ingredients"
Mains
With my tastebuds now dancing, I was
attracted to the hand-battered cod fillet with
homemade tartare sauce. Not to mention the
‘burger bar’ menu with a choice of ‘dirty fries’
- chips laden with bacon and cheese.
However, my weakness for traditional gravy
won out as I opted for a hearty turkey and
ham pie with chips. The homemade pastry
gave little resistance, revealing succulent meat
within, and the savoury sauce poured on.
My companion pushed the boat out and
ordered a medium rare fillet steak, served
on a bed of creamy garlic potatoes, topped with dressed rocket
and red onions. Both dishes were accompanied by tender carrot
batons, Brussels sprouts and a red cabbage dish with sultanas.
Puddings
On the menu
As ever, there was room for a pudding. Eton mess and dark
chocolate ganache tart were some of the mouth-watering
concoctions available. I ordered my favourite – warm, homemade
Dorset apple cake, served with vanilla ice cream. Divine! Having
tried many variations in my time, this one featured sultanas and
went down a treat. My companion chose a tasty syrup sponge,
which arrived with a generous jug of rich custard.
Menu's verdict
This a family-friendly pub catering for all appetites. There are
menus to suit all tastes and budget. With a new team at the
helm looking to appeal to locals and travellers, this is one ship
that you will want to board.
Lunch/evening menus - Starters £3.25 to £5.95;
Mains £4.95 to £19.95; Desserts £1.50-£4.95.
Breakfast menu (served 10am-2pm) £1.95 to £9.75
www.menu-dorset.co.uk
The Ship Inn
Wool, Wareham,Dorset BH20 6EQ.
shipwool.co.uk
01929 462247