MENU dorset issue 22 MENU22..dorset pdf issue 22. | Page 59

UPPER DECK
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Christchurch Harbour Hotel
They’ve added colour, pattern and caused a bit of a stir;
Emma Caulton visited to find out what all the fuss is about
ne for those in the know. There’s signage for The
Jetty (located in the grounds of the hotel), but we
don’t notice anything similar announcing the Upper
Deck. Yet this place should be shouted about.
Heading into the hotel, we steer straight ahead, through
intimate lounges with plush turquoise sofas and low tables
displaying assorted lanterns, and into the Upper Deck - a
spacious restaurant and bar decorated in a style I describe
as retro Riviera. There’s a colour scheme of orange and
aquamarine with base notes of charcoal, and an abstract
patterned paper of semi-circles (very Terry Frost-esque)
with cool, angle poise-style wall lights. Tables are set with
water glasses the colour of the Mediterranean and tea lights
in gold, hammered-effect glass bowls. All rather cheerful.
As it’s a dark wintry evening, we don’t take a seat by
an arched window (apparently there are fine views of
Christchurch Harbour), choosing instead
what’s described as a ‘booth’, under a
large, ornamental elephant that divides
the dining area from the bar, with its fun
cherry red bar stools. The elephant is
random, but, hey, it works, and provides a
talking point, too.
This is informal dining at its best. The
ambience is both relaxed and upbeat with
laughter from the bar. Service is spot on:
knowledgeable and enthusiastic about menu
and wine list, and friendly and attentive
without being obtrusive.
The evening starts with morsels while
we wait: piping hot tempura prawns dipped
into sweet chilli sauce and an amuse-
bouche of comforting, nutty butternut
squash soup served with thick hunks of
moist sourdough.
O
O
Chef Patron Alex Aitken has created the menus for The
Upper Deck (as well as for The Jetty next door), hence the
emphasis on local and seasonal. My partner picks well-
flavoured Mudeford crab croquettes presented on a warm
salad. I opt for Alex’s twice-baked soufflé with glazed
crust, brought steaming and bubbling to the table, a heap
of toasted cheesiness with Parmesan and local Lyburn
Winchester. Yet the texture is light and melting.
Mains
I go for sea bream fillet with sautéed potatoes, wild
mushroom, crispy kale and tangy butter sauce from the Ad
Hoc menu (basically daily specials) - a great combination
of textures with soft, crunch and chew . My other half
has trio of duck: a ceramic dish of a ducky shepherd’s pie,
sticky drumstick on parsnip and apple compote, and pink
breast on cabbage. Plentiful, rich and
satisfying.
“This is
informal
dining at its
best. Service
is spot on…
friendly and
attentive
without
being
obtrusive”
On the menu
Desserts
My boozy panna cotta is a pretty plateful
– the velvety mound of cream topped by
figs and blackberries roasted in honey and
sloe gin. It is, quite frankly, as good as it
sounds. His ‘chocolate and cherries’ is
artfully presented: warm, dark chocolate
fondant with kirsch-soaked Griottine
cherries, sweet cherry coulis and ice
cream. Irresistible.
To Drink
We started with familiar fizz, a glass of
prosecco. It was an interesting list, not the
usual selection, with a mix of old and new
world finds including a strong showing from
France, plus Portugal, South Africa and
Lebanon. The team guided us to a delicious
French Viognier-Marsanne (good value at £7.95 for a generous
250ml glass). Other suggestions were a bottle of Il Barroccio
Rosso Terre (£23.50) or Syrah Mandrarossa (£26.50), both
from Sicily, and Pedro Ximenez from Chile (£22.95).
Menu’s Verdict
Happiness is when service, food and ambience all come
together. It doesn’t happen that often because actually it’s
damn difficu