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Healthy and sustainable, mussels are perfect for January’s clear consciences
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he mussel isn’t the most glamorous seafood choice at the fish counter.
It’s not even the most desirable bivalve mollusc. Unlike the oyster,
it never gets served on a bed of ice at swanky parties and with a glass of
Champagne. But when it comes to being reasonably priced, sustainably
farmed and absolutely delicious, the mussel should be celebrated. We know
we want to punch the air when we see the words ‘moules-frites’ on a menu.
Unlike much aquaculture, farming mussels is actually good for the
marine environment. In fact, it’s barely farming at all, requiring no feed or
fertilisers, just the right place in a harbour or estuary to lower ropes which
the mussels grow on, consequently creating a habitat for small fish and
other sea-life in the process. They need no artificial feed, but grow from
the planktonic nutrients in the water.
Most big, clattering bags of mussels you buy from the fishmongers are
clean enough to cook right away, but rinse them off with water and discard
any with broken or opened shells. You will also want to remove their
‘beards’ – not a hipster affectation, but wiry attachments best removed with
a small knife and a tug towards the hinge end of the mussel. When cooked,
discard any shells that haven’t opened.
As with most seafood, simple is best to preserve the wonderful flavour
that starts almost from the smell of the sea that hits you as they steam.
A knob of butter, garlic, and a glass of cider or white wine to simmer them
in for three or four minutes never fails. Or try tomato or coconut milk
based sauces. This recipe from Samways will help use up that la st bit of
Christmas cheese. They’re the ultimate healthy fast food, taking less time
to cook than to eat and full of beneficial nutrients (although, it’s a strong
food lover who doesn’t want frites or a hunk of bread to mop up the juices
they’ve been cooked in).
Samways Fish Shop
9B & 9C West Bay, Bridport,
Dorset, DT6 4EN
01308 424496
www.samwaysfish.com
Un
Steamed Mu ssels with Applewood Smoked Ched d a r
“Our mussels from the Fowey Estuary in Cornwall are farmed
almost all year round, they are particuarly good from the end of
summer through winter.” say Samways…
Ingredients Method
Ser ves 2
1tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1kg Fowey mussels
1 shallot, finely diced
1 small pot crème fraîche
100g grated Applewood smoked cheddar
1 bunch flatleaf parsley, chopped
150ml dry white wine
Crusty bread roll to serve
Ser ves 4
1. Tip the mussels into a large bowl and rinse with cold water. Knock the
mussels around the bowl with your hand – this will ensure any dead
mussels will be seen and you can dispose of them. Do not use any
mussels that are open – just throw them away. Next, clean them off,
de-beard them, and scrape away any dirt. Our Fowey rope-grown
mussels are already fairly clean.
2. Warm the olive oil in a large pan. Add the diced shallot, genty cook
without colour, then add mussels and the white wine. Bring to the boil,
then add the crème fraîche.
3. Once the mussels have opened, add the grated Applewood smoked
cheddar and take off the heat. Stir in the cheese – it will melt and fall off
the shell into the sauce and coat the mussels.
4. Finally, dish out your mussels and add chopped parsley. Serve with a
warm crusty roll to mop up all the sauce!
www.menu-dorset.co.uk