What ' s on the menu
eat out
THE HEIGHTS HOTEL Alison Smith discovers both constancy and innovation as she visits a Portland icon
T ravelling across the ferry-bridge causeway always arouses a sense of anticipation . The excited tension builds as you climb winding roads , through hair pin after hair pin to the summit of Portland . From here the views are second to none – along the fleet lagoon and right across Lyme Bay , Weymouth Beach and Portland Harbour . And it ’ s this vista diners at The Heights Hotel ’ s first floor Bistro are fortunate enough to enjoy . It ’ s a setting few could rival . The dining room is reminiscent of an alpine restaurant with accents of sea green and royal blue and a recurrent wave design . Images of Olympic sailing heroes festoon the walls .
The restaurant
We are welcomed by Bet , who , like many of the staff at The Heights Hotel , is a long-time stalwart . Longevity is a theme here . Customers return year after year to enjoy perennial favourites , such as the Portland crab cakes and crab chowder , and the photogenic ice-cream sundae . Head Chef Richard Hinde ’ s style is heavily influenced by his many years working under his predecessor , Jerry Matthews , who is now a duty manager . But this is no throwback and a good mixed team in the kitchen keeps things fresh .
The drinks list includes a good range of beers on draught , cider from Dorset Nectar and ales from Weymouth ’ s Dorset Brewing company , alongside a reasonably priced wine list . We enjoy a fantastic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc , full in the nose and ripe with peach and gooseberry aromas .
The food
The menu is old school with a twist , classic but with global influences . It changes twice yearly , with a seasonal table d ’ hôte menu in
What ' s on the menu
Breakfast from 7:30am Lunch 12pm-2:30pm Afternoon tea 2:30pm-6pm Dinner 6pm-9pm Starters £ 5.95 to £ 11 Mains £ 15.50 to £ 21 Desserts £ 5.95 Lunch options from £ 5.95
“ The roasted beetroots with balsamic are sweet , sticky , earthy , and they hit the spot ”
the busier months . We ponder the homemade spring roll selection , but opt instead for a chicken , apricot and tarragon terrine and hand-dived Lyme Bay scallops . At first glance , the scallop dish appears fairly conventional , with a cauliflower purée and pancetta shards . The addition of oyster sauce , however , marks a departure from the norm , bringing richness to the dish with a slight tanginess , before finishing on a sweeter note . It ’ s a clever touch .
Buttery in the mouth with tender chunks of chicken , the terrine is a good example of its kind . A smattering of dried apricots and capers offer sweet and salty notes , while homemade gooseberry chutney and toasted brioche prove themselves to be ideal accompaniments .
Given its location , it ’ s unsurprising to learn that fish is a key player at The Heights Hotel , with its own subheading on the menu . With this in mind , we think it ’ s only proper that we dive in and order the house favourite – the Portland crab chowder . The sauce is rich and creamy against a subtle backdrop of shellfish . Abundant with seafood , it ’ s a bountiful and appetising dish . My main course arrives and I begin to wonder if , perhaps , we ’ ve over-done it on the scallops ! This time they offer a surf and turf dimension to pork belly , with crushed peas and thyme potatoes . The pork has a good fat to meat ratio and the scallops are well coloured and still juicy . The accompanying potatoes are salty , crunchy and moreish . Bet recommends we order a portion of roasted beetroots with balsamic and they don ’ t disappoint – they ’ re sweet , sticky , earthy , and they hit the spot .
The dessert
We opt for an apple tarte Tatin made with Bramley apples and homemade vanilla ice cream , and a banoffee bread and butter pudding served with traditional custard sauce . The bread and butter is indulgent but not heavy , and the all-important crust is deliciously caramelised with a good hit of nutmeg warmth . Portions are hearty . We fail to finish .
Menu ’ s verdict
It ’ s as clear as the view on a sunny day to see why this institute of Portland ’ s dining scene endures as a mainstay for visitors and locals alike . With every occasion catered for , from breakfast , through afternoon tea and night-time cocktails , you need only find an excuse to visit .
Bookings : The Heights Hotel , Isle of Portland , Nr Weymouth , DT5 2EN www . heightshotel . com 01305 821361
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www . menu-dorset . co . uk