Capreolus
Food
Hero
The latin na me fits because our
first food hero is already approa
ch ing legenda ry
status among foodies and chefs
for their world class charcuterie
. Miriam Ph illips
discovers a groa ning awards ca
binet and pigs that chow down on
Blue Vinney...
47
T’S the glint in his eye that tells you that David Richard’s passion has
paid off. The move from a world of big business for David and wife Karen
to a very rural farm was a big gamble, but with David’s love of charcuterie it
didn’t take long for the country to fall head over heels for their produce. In
just five short years the couple have taken the artisan business from startup
to a recognised label in farm shops, butchers and restaurants. Praised by
celebrity chefs, Capreolus (latin for deer) has picked up more than 30 top
awards since 2010. In fact, at the Taste of the West awards in 2013, the
couple received so many gold medals that they were the only food producer
to have ever won 10 out of 10 awards. Judge and top chef Mitch Tonks went
so far as to dub the couple, “the finest charcuterie producers in the UK...”
When I meet David and Karen in the former grain store in rural Dorset,
it is clear from the off that this couple love what they do. Their sheer passion
for their produce and their customer’s satisfaction is clearly worth the long
hours spent in their kitchens, sometimes seven days a week.
David explains that it was the misfortune of being made redundant that
was the inspiration he needed to turn his charcuterie hobby into a business.
The couple upped and moved to Dorset, cleaned out the old out-buildings
I
How to Make Charcuterie as Good as Capreolus…
1.Butcher the meat according to charcuterie techniques.
2. Cure the meat. Using the secret recipe the meat is vacuum packed in a bag
for up to two months, depending on which meat it is.
3. Fermentation process: the meat is washed off and put on a tray where it is
warmed up which entices the bacteria to multiply and protect the meat. Most
meats are then put in a maturing room or, if it is salami, it is air dried, for a
period of around two months. Which is nothing in this game...
4. Air dried or smoked: finally the meat is either air dried in the fridge or
smoked if that is required – for bacon, mutton, venison and smoked pancetta
and ham. This can take a staggering 15 months. It’s a delicious waiting game.
and began building their brand. It wasn’t long until restaurants had cottoned
on to quality of their goods, starting with Tim Maddams at River Cottage
who asked David to start curing smoked mutton.
The list of meats they produce now is extensive – from the pig alone there
are seven individual products, including pancetta, lardo and salami. Now
nearly 60 % of their sales are to restaurants. They’ve even appeared on TV
for Paul Hollywood’s Pies and Puds show.
The couple’s approach to animal welfare is reassuring. David will only
deal with meat that is high welfare and will not touch intensively reared
meat. The bulk of his pigs are from nearby Sam’s Pigs in Halstock. The pigs
are not only raised in the woods but they are fed Dorset Blue Vinney whey –
mirroring the methods used in the original Parma ham production in Italy,
where the pigs are fed Parmesan.
In the last 12 months, smoked mutton has been their best-seller but the
couple are about to launch a range of sustainable smoked fish. They are
perfecting the recipe for Atlantic Char and line-caught seabass and expect
this to be on the shelves later this year. Listening to their plans, the only way
is up for this Dorset brand who has captured the county’s tastebuds.
{
www.menu-dorset.co.uk
The Facts
Capreolus,Uphall Farm, Rampisham, Dorset
Website: www.capreolusfinefoods.co.uk
Capreolus can be found at stalls at Dorset’s food
festivals and stocked in shops around the county.
For a full list check their website.
Top selling product: Smoked mutton
Owners personal recommendation: Duck confit
and the Guanciale
{