Maximum Yield USA May 2018 | Page 44

climbing plants “ Each year, trim back new growth on the main shoot by a third, cutting just above a bud to encourage it to form new strong leader growth.” Espaliers Used for: Apples, pears A ladder-like formation trained flat against a wall or fence with pairs of branches emerging horizontally from the stem on each side at about one-foot intervals. You’ll need a 12-15-foot expanse of six-foot high fence per plant. When to prune: In winter while establishing and in summer for shaping and maintenance. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Getting started (Fig. 3): Tie the stem to a vertical cane and cut it back to just above the first wire, leaving at least three buds on the main stem. Two of these will grow on to make your first tier of side shoots and the topmost will make a new leader (main shoot). Remove any other unwanted side shoots as they emerge from the main stem. Tie the new leader into the cane and in the following years, repeat this process for the tiers above. As it grows (Fig. 4): Once all your tiers are established, cut back the leader to just above the topmost wire. Each summer, prune side shoots back to six or seven leaves (these will be your fruiting spurs) and shorten them by a third. Once they reach the limits of the available space, just prune them back into bounds. Entirely remove any unwanted shoots growing from the main trunk or into the wall. Fans Used for: Stone fruit like cherries, plums, apricots, peaches A formation created by shortening the trunk, then selecting strategic branches to fan out evenly across the space. A basic framework of canes tied to horizontal wires helps guide the shape. Takes up a similar amount of space to espaliers. When to prune: Summer only. Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Getting started (Fig. 5): Cut back the leading shoot to about 18 inches, just above two well-chosen side shoots, one on each side. Then, tie two canes onto your support wires at 45-degree angles and train these two laterals on to them as they grow. As it grows (Fig. 2): Each year, trim back new growth on the main shoot by a third, cutting just above a bud to encourage it to form new strong leader growth. Once it reaches the extent of the cordon, just snip it back to bounds each year. Each summer, cut back all the side shoots to six or seven leaves. If there are any sub-shoots growing from these spurs, prune these harder to four or five leaves. As it grows (Fig. 6): Choose two well-spaced shoots from the top of each branch and one from the bottom and train them along more canes attached to the support wires. Completely remove any shoots growing in the wrong direc- tion. Pinch out all side shoots at three or four leaves, then after harvest, prune them right back to the basal cluster of leaves; these will form your fruiting spurs. 44 feature