climbing plants
“
Each year, trim back new growth on the main
shoot by a third, cutting just above a bud to
encourage it to form new strong leader growth.”
Espaliers
Used for: Apples, pears
A ladder-like formation trained flat against a wall or fence
with pairs of branches emerging horizontally from the stem on
each side at about one-foot intervals. You’ll need a 12-15-foot
expanse of six-foot high fence per plant.
When to prune: In winter while establishing and in summer
for shaping and maintenance.
Fig. 1 Fig. 2
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Getting started (Fig. 3): Tie the stem to a vertical cane
and cut it back to just above the first wire, leaving at
least three buds on the main stem. Two of these will grow
on to make your first tier of side shoots and the topmost
will make a new leader (main shoot). Remove any other
unwanted side shoots as they emerge from the main stem.
Tie the new leader into the cane and in the following years,
repeat this process for the tiers above.
As it grows (Fig. 4): Once all your tiers are established,
cut back the leader to just above the topmost wire. Each
summer, prune side shoots back to six or seven leaves (these
will be your fruiting spurs) and shorten them by a third.
Once they reach the limits of the available space, just prune
them back into bounds. Entirely remove any unwanted
shoots growing from the main trunk or into the wall.
Fans
Used for: Stone fruit like cherries, plums, apricots, peaches
A formation created by shortening the trunk, then selecting
strategic branches to fan out evenly across the space. A basic
framework of canes tied to horizontal wires helps guide the
shape. Takes up a similar amount of space to espaliers.
When to prune: Summer only.
Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Getting started (Fig. 5): Cut back the leading shoot to
about 18 inches, just above two well-chosen side shoots,
one on each side. Then, tie two canes onto your support
wires at 45-degree angles and train these two laterals on
to them as they grow.
As it grows (Fig. 2): Each year, trim back new growth on the
main shoot by a third, cutting just above a bud to encourage it
to form new strong leader growth. Once it reaches the extent
of the cordon, just snip it back to bounds each year. Each
summer, cut back all the side shoots to six or seven leaves.
If there are any sub-shoots growing from these spurs, prune
these harder to four or five leaves. As it grows (Fig. 6): Choose two well-spaced shoots from
the top of each branch and one from the bottom and train
them along more canes attached to the support wires.
Completely remove any shoots growing in the wrong direc-
tion. Pinch out all side shoots at three or four leaves, then
after harvest, prune them right back to the basal cluster of
leaves; these will form your fruiting spurs.
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