T here are plenty of icons that represent the quirky side of Rhode Island : sweet caffeine-spiked milk , a massive termite on the interstate , platters of deepfried squid punctuated by banana peppers . But it was Al Forno , forty-three years ago , that told a different story of this small state : one that was deeply rooted in the arts and which made an impact , not only on local culture but international eating .
The history is well-documented : Johanne Killeen and George Germon , two RISD students , fell in love with each other and with the rustic food of Italy . You could say the rest is history , but that would leave the accomplishments of the iconic Providence restaurant in the past , which misses , entirely , its ongoing influence . Those younger than the restaurant itself may have met grilled pizza or made-to-order desserts elsewhere — and they may , in turn , overlook the fact that creative vision is at the base of Al Forno ’ s identity .
But decades later , its sense of self still radiates from the physical space , an aesthetic labyrinth that shifts from a pastoral patio to modern cavalcade in one swift turn . Brick is the predominant material but windows , interior and out , are key to the experience : everything is referential and diners often find themselves looking into other sections of the restaurant with Alice in Wonderland curiosity . Base colors are neutral — paint , marble , wood — but there are vibrant interruptions ( a mustard-and-gray striped ceiling , limegreen accents , crystal chandeliers ) that manifest a vision that has always harmonized ritual and innovation .
No one would argue that the heart of Al Forno is Italian , but there ’ s something uniquely American about Al Forno ’ s trajectory . Emerson demanded a revolution against the status quo and , decades later , there ’ s still no other restaurant that continues to unveil itself , even to veteran diners . “ Oh , see ! They ’ ve got your duck legs ,” says one woman , reassuringly , to her spouse . “ But habanero sausage !” he responds . “ That could really wake me up .” It ’ s true that the staples of the menu — grilled pizza , pasta , steak — are familiar to anyone who eats . But the manner in which they ’ re delivered , a paradox of robust delicacy , is the manifesto that drives the kitchen .
It ’ s not just that no one did grilled pizza before Germon and Killeen ; it ’ s that no one does it as well now . Often an exercise in
AL FORNO 577 South Water St ., Providence , 273-9760 , alforno . com
Open for dinner Tuesday – Saturday .
CUISINE Rustic Italian .
PRICES Appetizers : $ 10 –$ 22 ; entrees : $ 22 ( pasta )–$ 46 ( dirty steak ).
MUST GET Everyone ’ s already got a favorite ; order your own or someone else ’ s .
RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l MARCH 2023 89