March 2023 | Page 57

Restaurant Relics

THESE RESTAURANTS HAVE EXISTED SINCE BEFORE RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY WAS FOUNDED , AND WE ’ RE THANKFUL THEY ’ VE BARELY CHANGED A THING .
Marchetti ’ s
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 41 Not much has changed since Marchetti ’ s opened its doors in 1982 . The Italian restaurant in Cranston ’ s Knightsville neighborhood turns out family recipes passed down for generations , including meatballs , lasagna , calamari alla mama , chicken and veal parmigiana and an abundance of seafood entrees , all served with an air of nostalgia . 1463 Park Ave ., Cranston , 943-7649 , marchettis . com
Al Forno
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 43 Al Forno ’ s claim to fame is the invention of grilled pizza , but the handcrafted baked pastas by chef David Reynoso and team are equally as notable . Wood-grilled entrees include a spicerubbed and crackle-skinned half chicken with an herbaceous sauce . Some things never change : Dessert — housemade ice cream , fruit tarts and cookie plates — still must be ordered at the start of your meal , and it ’ s worth the wait . 577 South Water St ., Providence , 273-9760 , alforno . com
Capriccio
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 45 Descend into the subterranean space carved out of the cellar of an 1800s Providence historic landmark . Politicians and businessmen sport dinner jackets while servers wear crisp white shirts and bowties for service that lingers into the night . Out of more than sixty entree options , opt for a dish that displays the lost art of tableside flambe : steak Diane , shrimp scampi and beef Wellington include dinner and a show . 2 Pine St ., Providence , 421-1320 , capriccios . com
Pot au Feu
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 51 The first time Julia Child visited Pot au Feu , owners Robert I . and Annie Burke were traveling in Paris . The manager explained to Child that they were away doing food and wine research . “ That ’ s just where they ought to be ,”
Child said with her famous chortle . Luckily for the Burkes , she returned again to their French bistro that has always served consistent and comforting meals , and they have a signed menu from her as a souvenir . 44 Custom House St ., Providence , 273-8953 , potaufeuri . com
Wright ’ s Farm Restaurant
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 51 Family-owned and -operated for more than fifty years , this Rhode Island icon has played host to generations of families celebrating milestones . The family-style meal has always started with freshly baked rolls and a tossed salad with the famous Italian dressing , followed by pasta with homemade marinara sauce , signature french fries and juicy , tender chicken , now going for $ 16.75 , or a 14 oz . sirloin steak with unlimited sides for $ 28 . 84 Inman Rd ., Burrillville , 769-2856 , wrightsfarm . com
Andrea ’ s
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 57 The Thayer Street mainstay is known for its Greek cuisine , including keftedes lamb meatballs with tzatziki , calamari with olive oil , sundried tomatoes and cherry peppers , and , of course , rolled grape leaves and meze platters of meats and vegetables . The restaurant has survived various calamities due to water damage and renovations and continues to be a College Hill institution located right near Brown University . 268 Thayer St ., Providence , 331-7879 , andreasri . com
Coast Guard House
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 78 The Coast Guard House was built in 1888 by legendary architects McKim , Mead and White ( famous for the Rhode Island State House and New York ’ s original Penn Station , among other buildings ) as a United States Life Saving Service station . In 1945 , it was reborn as the Coast
Guard House restaurant serving locally harvested seafood on a seasonal basis , and in 1979 , it became a year-round favorite just as it is today , now with an updated dining room and waterfront roofdeck . 40 Ocean Rd ., Narragansett , 789-0700 , thecoastguardhouse . com
Angelo ’ s
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 99 Classic Italian dishes earn the spotlight at Angelo ’ s , owned by Jamie Antignano . Open for nearly 100 years , there ’ s a reason the thirdgeneration restaurant hasn ’ t changed much since 1924 . Favorites include chicken parm , slow-cooked veal and peppers and meatballs served with fries . During the Great Depression , the original owner , Angelo Mastrodicasa , invited folks in need to eat his signature meatballs and fries to help tide them over to their next meal . The tradition continues today . 141 Atwells Ave ., Providence , 621-8171 , angelosri . com
Olympia Tea Room
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 107 A cornerstone of Watch Hill since 1916 , the restaurant is open late April through late fall , and features a bistro-style menu including New England seafood alongside harbor views . The restaurant was opened by a Greek family , Michael , Theodore and Speros Tramis , who ran it through the ’ 70s until Jack and Marcia Felber bought it in 1980 . 74 Bay St ., Watch Hill , 348-8211 , olympiatearoom . com
White Horse Tavern
YEARS IN BUSINESS : 350 Step back in time at the oldest continuously operated tavern in America , where Founding Fathers , merchants and pirates have met and dined since 1673 . Open 364 days a year , the intimate ambience includes cozy tables , uneven wide-plank floors and original fireplaces alongside a classic New England-style menu featuring selections from land and sea . 26 Marlborough St ., Newport , 849-3600 , whitehorsenewport . com — Jamie Coelho 🆁
GRAPHIC ( PLATE ): GETTY IMAGES / CHANNARONGSDS .
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