March 2022 Issue #3 MM | Page 83

Let me preface this by declaring my love for dirty burgers . For me , the best burgers don ’ t need to be stacked with gourmet fixins on brioche - I like my burgers basic , with cheese and a not-too exotic assortment of toppings . I like that dirty burgers have seen a recent resurgence at places like Burger ’ s Priest , but I also have a soft spot for old-school haunts like Golden Star and Burger Shack . Johnny ’ s might have even remained on this shortlist , if only I ’ d skipped this reunion .
The veal fares no better . It ’ s almost certainly the boxed variety composed of processed bits reformed into a cutlet-like shape and breaded in the same crust you ’ d find on low-grade freezer aisle chicken nuggets . To be honest , I couldn ’ t tell that it wasn ’ t chicken - the texture was mushy and aside from the toasty bun and pickles , did not require chewing . The fries , which were once endorsed by Scarborough native Mike Myers for ultra-crispness , thanks to a double-dip in the fryer , don ’ t live up to their reputation . The first few I ate are still tasty straight from the fryer , but once plucked from the steaming paper bag , they ’ re sadly limp and starchy .
Onion rings are decent , but overall the nicest thing I can say about Johnny ’ s is that dinner for two came in under $ 15 .
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