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to see the place and talk with him .”
Baugh , who was working with renowned Chef Ouita Michel at the time , started out as just a consultant for Solidago .
One of his first pieces of advice for Gumbert — the building needed a bar — an interesting notion for a dry county .
“ I kept telling him , ‘ You need something in the space .’ It needed a centerpiece to bring it together ,” Baugh recalled . Gumbert agreed . “ Bars don ’ t always have to be about alcohol ,” Gumbert said . “ It ’ s more of a gathering place , really . A place where you can relax , sit and talk , and enjoy food . We plan to have taps soon with homemade sodas .”
So Gumbert , along with carpenter Tony Vince , got to work on building Solidago a bar .
The bar is constructed from the old floor joists of the building which were saved during the renovations . Gumbert said he believes the wood could be American Chestnut — an endangered species . Inlaid into the bar are bow tie-shaped pieces of Texas mesquite , which is a nod to Gumbert ’ s roots .
The focal point of the bar uses the pillars , window trusses , frames and door entry of a historic house in Madison County , just a few miles from Paint Lick , that was torn down after falling into disrepair . Gumbert saved the materials and repurposed them to construct the back of the bar at Solidago .
At the center of the bar is Winston the buffalo , which Gumbert explained is representative of the history of the Paint Lick area — a former hunting ground for Native American tribes and which derives its name from the salt licks buffalo and game flocked to in former times .
“ We took pieces from the community to build this
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building ,” Gumbert explained . “ I wanted it to represent and reflect the rich history of Paint Lick .”
‘ AN ECLETIC PLACE ’ Baugh never expected to be the mind behind the dishes of Solidago .
After spending years working as a “ hired gun ” chef in high end restaurants in Washington , D . C ., Tennessee , South Carolina , and North Carolina , Baugh moved back to Kentucky with the goal to use the knowledge he learned elsewhere back to his native state .
“ Something kept drawing me back here ,” Baugh said of Paint Lick . “ It ’ s an eclectic place and I had never really
explored this area of Kentucky much . I was always thinking about what is going to work in this interesting little place . I was drawn to the agricultural and the campus we have around the restaurant .”
Baugh said the area is rich with great products from local farmers and he was intrigued with how the restaurant could highlight , and be a part , of that integral system .
“ I love that quote from Wendell Berry . He said ‘ eating is an agricultural act .’ I believe that . It ’ s part of the agricultural
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system . People are so disconnected to agricultural , when really , we all our participating in agricultural by eating .”
Baugh credits Quita Michel with giving him the confidence to take on chef ’ s duties at Solidago .
“ I was wary at first … but over the past year and a half Quita Michel became a close confidant of mine . I learned so much from her from a business standpoint , and I can ’ t thank her enough ,” Baugh said . “ She would say to me , ‘ I ’ ve been thinking about your project in Paint Lick and just do your food . Don ’ t try to cater to people or try to make something that ’ s not inspiring to you . Just do your food .’”
Baugh ’ s describes his food as “ approachable .” It is well made , uses the freshest and highest quality of ingredients available , and therefore , works within the growing seasons . The ingredients shine in his dishes .
“ That ’ s one of the great and bad things . Our menu consists of what ’ s in season , so when it ’ s gone , it ’ s gone ,” Baugh explained .
Baugh also wants to break down the stereotypes surrounding food .
“ People want to try new
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things and deserve to have good food in their communities . Good food doesn ’ t have to be really expensive ,” Baugh explained . “ I ’ ve been delighted that some of the more adventurous things I put on the menu have been really popular .”
‘ THE WAY IT NEEDS TO BE ’ “ I cook all the food and find all the food ,” Baugh explained . Finding the food hasn ’ t been that difficult in a place rich in agriculture .
When Baugh decided to become the chef of Solidago , he reached out to long-time collaborators Hoot Owl Holler Farm .
Owners Lonnie and Sharon Wilson have been farming for centuries on their Boyle County land in the knob country .
Lonnie Wilson said , like many Kentucky farmers , he originally grew tobacco , but had a desire to produce something “ more healthy for people .”
Hoot Owl Holler Farm started transitioning away from the crop even before the large tobacco buyout .
After years of setting up at farmer ’ s markets , the Wilsons began selling to restaurants . For Lonnie , working with chefs like Baugh , is a rewarding partnership as he gets to see the fruits of his efforts transformed into unique and tasty dishes .
“ It ’ s great . All that hard work you did , it ends up where it needs to be . Trust me , when you ’ re out in the field and it ’ s real hot , you think about it ,” Lonnie Wilson said .
He said he would struggle sometimes when customers of his at the farmer ’ s market would neglect the produce they purchased from Hoot Owl Holler Farm .
“ I would ask them a couple weeks later , ‘ How ’ d you like that tomato ?’ They would tell me they went on vacation or something , left it out , and when they come back , it wasn ’ t good anymore . I
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