LUXURY INDIAN OCEAN EXPÉRIENCES
© Gaëlle Gonzalez
Being a good regatta racer is above all a question of honour .
For these brothers of the coast , being a good regatta racer is above all a question of honour . Not just for your team but also for the reputation of your village and its sailors . For generations , Rodriguans have had a privileged relationship with these marine races at the hands of the winds . Regattas form part of their DNA . Moreover , they have a very active association , and certain pirogue boats are known right along the coastline ( Cyclone , Lichien , Frégate , La Flamme …).
I ’ ve often photographed the regattas on Mauritius and passing through Rodrigues I felt I absolutely had to immortalise such an event on silver film . By scooter , I headed to the village of Graviers . There I met my contact , the lovely “ Bobo ” who acts as a sort of Master of Ceremonies for these competitions . Very attached to tradition , he ’ s one of these devotees fighting wind and tide to ensure this art survives .
Under a glaring sun , it quickly became clear the race won ’ t start for another few hours : on this small island , people still know how to take their time . Not to worry – the preparation of the pirogues is in itself a spectacle . This is the moment for competitors to make final tweaks to their sails and other rigging . They discuss strategies , sails , and winds . While children splash in the water , the villagers settle in the shade of the filao trees . The easterlies carry the smell of barbecues and the sound of ravannes .
In Rodrigues , the regatta pirogues – also used for artisanal fishing – have the particularity of being smaller , narrower , and above all pointier at each end . The team is reduced down to 4 or 5 sailors , each with their own specific tasks for the round . The captain is the only master on board : he takes the helm and sets the tempo . A real knowledge of winds , tides , and the composition of the coast is essential .
Once the race begins , the lagoon transforms into a huge arena peppered with multicoloured sails . On the beach , the temperature rises . The crowd , which was almost drowsy , suddenly erupts . The spectacle takes place along the water but also the shoreline . Once departed , the boats employ strategies to overtake their competitors : close-hauled , broad reach … The barges zigzag and change tack with each gust of wind . On the beach is a festive atmosphere : the spectators are full throttle , shouting names of pirogues as old fishermen comment on manoeuvres .
Onboard , the atmosphere is more tense . The sailors stand fast , obeying the captain ’ s orders . The stakes being high , spirits onboard flare and insults fly from one pirogue to another as they cross each other at the buoys . Heaven forbid a team should capsize ! Despite a good-natured atmosphere , winning is important . Today , it ’ s the captain of “ La Flamme ” and his valiant team that sail to victory . A real coup , the large glittering cup will preside proudly over the living room … until the next round .
It doesn ’ t matter if you have no grasp of sailing jargon or wind direction . Beyond the sporting prowess on offer , these traditional pirogue regattas also have the advantage of bringing communities together in the spirit of conviviality and keeping this beautiful tradition alive .
When you feel the wind blow … To Rodrigues , you should go .
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