Regrettably sherry sales figures in Spain have been heading south for years, and there was at one time real concern about the future. In recent years practically the only time sherry was traditionally drunk was, and still is, at Andalucian ferias, and although the quantities are huge, they cannot support the capital-intensive production methods necessary for the wine. Most bodegas have vast stocks and have to see an annual rotation. Otherwise the traditional solera system that blends wine from different years and makes it so special and unique cannot be maintained as it needs to be.
Fortunately there are now signs that sales are picking up again, above all in overseas markets. Britain is showing a renewed interest in the stuff and even young people have started drinking it. But the biggest boost is from celebrity chefs who are using it increasingly in signature dishes, and two awardwinning London restaurants, Moro and Fino, offer tasting menus to combine with different varieties of sherry. The increase in popularity of tapa bars has helped, and what is happening in Britain is being replicated in the USA.
Oriental eateries are also promoting sherry. As an accompaniment to most eastern cuisine it has no rival, and even with Indian food can stand up for itself much better than ordinary wine can- although beer and cava will always be best.
Anyway ten years ago Marks & Spencer’ s sherry range consisted of five wines and it now has 12, with sales up 18 %.
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