Luxury Indian Ocean LUXURY INDIAN OCEAN #9 EDITION 2019 - 2020 | Page 46

MADAGASCAR Madagascar. On the southwestern coasts of the island, where the Vezo live, the ripples from an abundant ocean lap the shoreline. Each day, these undisputed masters of traditional fishing, clamber aboard their beam and square sail pirogues to travel through the waves. Equipped with seines, fishing nets, fishing lines and harpoons, the Vezo (whose name means “people of the sea”) fish widely both on foot and from a pirogue. Like pieces on a chessboard, the men, women and children have a set role. filled with ancestral beliefs transmitted over the generations. From birth, the destiny of the Vezo is inextricably linked to an ocean inhabited by magic beings, spirits and the souls of those who’ve drowned. It is a peaceful tribe but there are plenty of taboos– fady – that must be observed to avoid the wrath of the supernatural beings that inhabit the ocean, as fishing depends on their goodwill. If they catch more fish than they need, the Vezo risk punishment, the severity of which the sea will decide as it sees fit. There is a love affair between the Vezo and the sea, born from the challenge of the waves and transmitted through traditions, beliefs, values and way of life. They may be born fishermen but one thing is sure, you are not born a Vezo. You become one. Being a Vezo is knowing the secrets of the waves and being able to master the whims of the swell and anticipate, at the swerve of a puff of wind, what mood the waves are in. They have no word as such for fishing but rather make a poetic use of the words of the human body to speak about the world around them. Unfortunately, the Vezo way of life, their very reason for being, has been undermined by modern pressures emphasising yield and productivity. The growing number of European and Asian boats in their waters are having a long- lasting impact, depleting fauna and flora as a result of mass fishing. Climate change is also a direct threat to the health of marine ecosystems and is changing the basis of the Vezo’s simple lifestyle. Marine protected areas have therefore been created with the help of local communities in order to perpetuate the Vezo’s way of life and allow them « to live with the sea », a translation of the Malagasy Vezo dialect word for them, « Velondriake ». While the Vezo give thanks to an omnipresent god, they have a rich folklore Photos: © V.V "There is a love affair between the Vezo and the sea..." 46