Travel
E
ach month, our Editor-at-Large
and Paris resident, Leah Walker,
is opening her French address
book. She’ll share the latest,
greatest, little known, classic
and up-and-coming finds focused on
her adopted home country.
Take This Tour
World War II buffs and those simply
interested in the history of Paris will
appreciate “Lights Out, Paris Under
the Occupation” by Context Travel.
Led by a modern historian, this
walking tour examines the lives of
Parisians under Nazi Germany’s rule.
Focused on the Right Bank of the
city, the tour explores a Jewish
residential neighborhood in the 9th
arrondissement, Place Vendôme,
Place de la Concorde, and other
lesser-known sites along the way.
During the three-hour tour, stories
from Jewish citizens and members of
the WWII Résistance are recounted,
while the roles of notable people
such as Josephine Baker, Coco Chanel
and Ernest Hemingway are explored.
This tour sheds a new light on
familiar sites, bringing history
to life; and is easily one of my
favorite experiences in Paris.
Fine Dining
Obviously, Paris doesn’t have the
monopoly on Michelin-starred
restaurants in France, but it might
come as a surprise that the
picturesque Alpine town of Megève
is home to three chefs who’ve earned
the coveted stars. Located in the
Rothschild-owned property, Chalet
du Mont d’Arbois, Le 1920 is under
the direction of young Chef Julien
Gatillon. With one Michelin star,
Le 1920 is a contemporary take on
traditional French gastronomy. At the
one-star La Table de l’Alpaga, Chef
Christophe Schuffenecker has created
a ‘refined mountain cuisine’ as
beautiful as Mont Blanc, which can
be seen from the warm and elegant
dining room. At the three-star
restaurant, Flocons de Sel, Chef
Emmanuel Renaut has created the
ultimate in French Alpine gastronomy.
In the event there’s not a reservation
to be had, try Le Flocon Village, his
casual bistro in the center of town,
which is also a delicious option.
Megève in Rhône-Alpes
For the Wine Lover
In Paris’s fifth arrondissement is De
Vinis Illvstribvs. Lionel Michelin and
his wife, Dominique, opened this
extraordinary wine shop in 1994.
Specializing in rare and aged wines,
De Vinis Illvstribvs is the go-to place
in Paris for those looking for a very
special bottle. Lionel’s expertise is
unparalleled, and his and knowledge
of French wines is astounding. The
store also has a good selection of
newer wine from various French
regions. Personally selected by
Lionel, a bottle can be had starting
around 20 euros. Custom-made
tastings are available in the cave.
Surrounded by vintage wines in the
cave, tastings with cheese, lunch,
or dinner can be arranged. No matter
your budget or knowledge of wine,
De Vinis Illvstribvs can organize a
personalized experience and find a
bottle to please your palate. De Vinis
Illvstribvs, 48, rue de la MontagneSainte-Geneviève, Paris
Visit This Museum
Located in Paris’s eighth
arrondissement, the serene Musée
Jacquemart-André is often overlooked
by tourists. Possibly the finest of
the city’s small museums, it’s a
magnificent find for lovers of Italian
Renaissance art and 18th century
French painters. This magnificent
mansion was built in 1875 for Edouard
Andre. Here, he and his wife, Nélie,
amassed a huge art collection. Nélie
bequeathed the home and its contents
to the Institut de France, which was
opened to the public in 1913. The
home is filled with Louis XV and Louis
XVI-era furniture, tapestries and
objets d’art, which is a testament to
the couple’s travels across Europe and
Asia. Whether for a light lunch, tea,
or Sunday brunch, make it a point to
enjoy Café Jacquemart-André, which
is located in the mansion’s former
dining room. Visitors with Android or
iPhones can download the museum’s
free app, which includes a guided tour,
interactive maps, biographies, and
images. Musée Jacquemart-André, 158
Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris
Take This Walk
In my travels around France, I’ve come
to appreciate the places that have a
well-organized plan for international
visitors; whether it’s bilingual
historical markers (Paris doesn’t!) or
an official walking tour, like the Owl’s
Trail in Dijon. Similar to the Freedom
Trail in Boston, Dijon’s version covers
much of the city center, and includes
three optional loops. Bronze owls
embedded in the sidewalks mark the
route, but to get the most of the
22-stage trail, a guide can be
purchased at the office of tourism.
The walk takes about an hour, and
covers the best of this historically
dense city. One of the best things
about t